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Lot Essay
The DB25 Perpetual Calendar is undeniably one of De Bethune’s most beautiful and intricate wristwatches. For this model, De Bethune has prioritized wearability by crafting the case in lightweight titanium and reducing its diameter to a highly comfortable 40 mm, compared to the 44 mm cases of earlier versions.
This latest iteration of the De Bethune Perpetual Calendar boasts an illustrious lineage. The brand’s first perpetual calendar models, the DB15 (2004) and DB17 (2005), were both manually wound. In 2010, De Bethune introduced its first automatic perpetual calendar, the DB25QP.
The dial design of the DB25 Perpetual Calendar is exceptionally refined and already regarded as a timeless classic. Indeed, the overall aesthetic of De Bethune’s perpetual calendar dials has remained largely unchanged since the introduction of the DB15, reflecting its status as a design that is both unmistakably traditional and distinctly contemporary. For this model, the silvered hand-guilloché center is divided into 12 sectors, while the chapter ring and subdials are crafted from contrasting fired blue titanium. The days of the week and months are displayed in apertures at 3 and 9 o’clock, while the date is indicated on the subsidiary chapter ring in the lower half of the dial. Collectors will undoubtedly appreciate the signature De Bethune three-dimensional spherical moon phase indicator, made of blued steel and palladium, beautifully set within a night sky disc adorned with pink gold stars. Ingeniously, a small circular aperture just below the moon phase serves as the leap-year indicator.
Flipping the watch over reveals the display caseback, showcasing the automatic caliber DB2324V2 - a refined, smaller version of De Bethune’s existing perpetual calendar movement. All blued components are crafted from fired blue titanium. With two barrels providing a five-day power reserve, the movement was developed under the supervision of De Bethune’s co-founder and master watchmaker, Denis Flageollet. It incorporates the brand’s latest technical innovations to enhance chronometric performance, including a balance wheel constructed from titanium and white gold, De Bethune's patented flat terminal curve balance spring, a silicon escape wheel, and a triple shock-absorption system.
This latest iteration of the De Bethune Perpetual Calendar boasts an illustrious lineage. The brand’s first perpetual calendar models, the DB15 (2004) and DB17 (2005), were both manually wound. In 2010, De Bethune introduced its first automatic perpetual calendar, the DB25QP.
The dial design of the DB25 Perpetual Calendar is exceptionally refined and already regarded as a timeless classic. Indeed, the overall aesthetic of De Bethune’s perpetual calendar dials has remained largely unchanged since the introduction of the DB15, reflecting its status as a design that is both unmistakably traditional and distinctly contemporary. For this model, the silvered hand-guilloché center is divided into 12 sectors, while the chapter ring and subdials are crafted from contrasting fired blue titanium. The days of the week and months are displayed in apertures at 3 and 9 o’clock, while the date is indicated on the subsidiary chapter ring in the lower half of the dial. Collectors will undoubtedly appreciate the signature De Bethune three-dimensional spherical moon phase indicator, made of blued steel and palladium, beautifully set within a night sky disc adorned with pink gold stars. Ingeniously, a small circular aperture just below the moon phase serves as the leap-year indicator.
Flipping the watch over reveals the display caseback, showcasing the automatic caliber DB2324V2 - a refined, smaller version of De Bethune’s existing perpetual calendar movement. All blued components are crafted from fired blue titanium. With two barrels providing a five-day power reserve, the movement was developed under the supervision of De Bethune’s co-founder and master watchmaker, Denis Flageollet. It incorporates the brand’s latest technical innovations to enhance chronometric performance, including a balance wheel constructed from titanium and white gold, De Bethune's patented flat terminal curve balance spring, a silicon escape wheel, and a triple shock-absorption system.