Lot Essay
For centuries rulers of the Mughal empire venerated precious stones of the highest caliber. Portrayed in historical Mughal imagery, Emperors adorned themselves with countless strands of pearl necklaces that featured richly saturated spinels and emeralds. Not only was the desire to ornament because these rulers had a true appreciation for jewelry rooted in tradition, but they deliberately chose magnificent jewelry set with top quality gemstones as a means of showcasing their status and power.
With no expense spared, special officials were commissioned to search for these spectacular-colored stones. Often inscribed with the name and titles of the rulers of the time, only those with the best color, clarity and size were chosen to carefully record history. The Timurids, ancestors of the Mughals, had begun the tradition of inscribing titles and names on stones of such outstanding quality, and large spinel beads were certainly their favorite. As much as these gems were a symbol of the opulence and dignity of the empire, they were also treasured as protective talismans.
Inscribing a gemstone with an emperor's name with lineage and dates was a mark of appreciation for the exceptional beauty of the stone, and bestowed on it respect and imperial dignity. In some examples where more than one inscription is noted, it is suggested that the stone was passed down through generations.
One famous example of a historical spinel is the Carew Spinel, which is housed in the Victoria and Albert Museum. Prized for its color and history, the Carew Spinel is inscribed with the names of Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Alamgir, also known as the former Mughal Prince Aurangezb. These spinels originated from the Badakhshan mine, in the 'Pamir' region located between Afghanistan and Tajikistan. This province gave its derived name to spinels, described as “Balas Rubies” for decades. Later in the 19th century it would be determined that spinels and rubies are chemically two different gems, but for hundreds of years, any red stone was described as a ruby. Another famous historical inscribed spinel is the “Timur Ruby” which is indeed a spinel. Residing in England like the Carew Spinel, the Timur Ruby is part of the illustrious Royal Collection of HM Queen Elizabeth II of England.
This three-strand spinel and pearl necklace is incredible example from the Mughal dynasty. 8 out of the 45 polished spinel beads feature names of important rulers including Babur Shah Badshah, Jahangir Shah, The Sultan Mahmud Shah, and The Sultan Muhammad Tuqhluq.
Equally as important as the ruler whose name was to be inscribed, was the position of the planets on the day the stone was set to be inscribed. Astrological factors correlated directly with this detailed practice, as these enchanting stones were believed to have spiritual and protective properties.
The Mughal Dynasty was founded by Babur in the 15th Century. He was a direct descendent of Timur, and Chagatai who was the second son of the notable Mongol ruler, Genghis Khan. Inscribed on one bead is his name “Babur Shah Badshah”. Known for his military strategies and autobiography, the Baburnama which details the events of his life, Babur laid the foundation for one of the most powerful empires in Indian history. The same bead shares another inscription written in Devanagari, which is a script used to write many languages of the time.
The third Mughal emperor, Akbar the Great (1542-1605), also collected highly coveted spinels, most notably wearing them directly on the skin for their protective qualities. His son, Emperor Jahangir (1569-1627), followed suit as a wonderful connoisseur of gems. Jahangir Shah, also known as Emperor Jahangir, is inscribed into history in a bead on the necklace as well. Carefully inscribed the bead reads “Jahangir Shah (son) of Akbar Shah” with the second inscription of the bead reading “Second lord of the Auspicious Conjunction”. He was the fourth ruler of the Mughal empire who reigned from 1605 to 1627. History notes he was patron of the arts, so it is no surprise that he followed his father as a wonderful connoisseur of gems. Emperor Jahangir’s reign is marked by advancements in the arts and governing styles versus military achievements. His name is also inscribed on a few other beads located on the necklace.
His deep appreciation and passion for collecting important gemstones was continued by his son, Shah Jahan (1592-1666). Shah Jahan is best known for constructing the monumental Taj Mahal at Agra, one of the most magnificent architectural wonders in the world.
Predecessors to those rulers above, “The Sultan Mahmud Shah” inscribed on one bead as well – this name possibly referring to Sultan Mahmud Shah III of Gujarat. He was a ruler of the Gujarate Sultanate in the early 16th Century. Nestled in the necklace sits a bead inscribed “The Sultan Muhammad Tuqhluq”. Likely this refers to the Sultan of Delhi Muhammad Tughluq, who was the ruler of the Delhi Sultanate in the 14th Century.
Found between the three strands of alternating pearls and spinel beads sits a rich cultural history, documented with the honor and prestige one can only expect from the Mughal empire. This necklace presents an exceedingly rare opportunity to acquire a jewel of such historical provenance directly offered from a royal collection.
With no expense spared, special officials were commissioned to search for these spectacular-colored stones. Often inscribed with the name and titles of the rulers of the time, only those with the best color, clarity and size were chosen to carefully record history. The Timurids, ancestors of the Mughals, had begun the tradition of inscribing titles and names on stones of such outstanding quality, and large spinel beads were certainly their favorite. As much as these gems were a symbol of the opulence and dignity of the empire, they were also treasured as protective talismans.
Inscribing a gemstone with an emperor's name with lineage and dates was a mark of appreciation for the exceptional beauty of the stone, and bestowed on it respect and imperial dignity. In some examples where more than one inscription is noted, it is suggested that the stone was passed down through generations.
One famous example of a historical spinel is the Carew Spinel, which is housed in the Victoria and Albert Museum. Prized for its color and history, the Carew Spinel is inscribed with the names of Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Alamgir, also known as the former Mughal Prince Aurangezb. These spinels originated from the Badakhshan mine, in the 'Pamir' region located between Afghanistan and Tajikistan. This province gave its derived name to spinels, described as “Balas Rubies” for decades. Later in the 19th century it would be determined that spinels and rubies are chemically two different gems, but for hundreds of years, any red stone was described as a ruby. Another famous historical inscribed spinel is the “Timur Ruby” which is indeed a spinel. Residing in England like the Carew Spinel, the Timur Ruby is part of the illustrious Royal Collection of HM Queen Elizabeth II of England.
This three-strand spinel and pearl necklace is incredible example from the Mughal dynasty. 8 out of the 45 polished spinel beads feature names of important rulers including Babur Shah Badshah, Jahangir Shah, The Sultan Mahmud Shah, and The Sultan Muhammad Tuqhluq.
Equally as important as the ruler whose name was to be inscribed, was the position of the planets on the day the stone was set to be inscribed. Astrological factors correlated directly with this detailed practice, as these enchanting stones were believed to have spiritual and protective properties.
The Mughal Dynasty was founded by Babur in the 15th Century. He was a direct descendent of Timur, and Chagatai who was the second son of the notable Mongol ruler, Genghis Khan. Inscribed on one bead is his name “Babur Shah Badshah”. Known for his military strategies and autobiography, the Baburnama which details the events of his life, Babur laid the foundation for one of the most powerful empires in Indian history. The same bead shares another inscription written in Devanagari, which is a script used to write many languages of the time.
The third Mughal emperor, Akbar the Great (1542-1605), also collected highly coveted spinels, most notably wearing them directly on the skin for their protective qualities. His son, Emperor Jahangir (1569-1627), followed suit as a wonderful connoisseur of gems. Jahangir Shah, also known as Emperor Jahangir, is inscribed into history in a bead on the necklace as well. Carefully inscribed the bead reads “Jahangir Shah (son) of Akbar Shah” with the second inscription of the bead reading “Second lord of the Auspicious Conjunction”. He was the fourth ruler of the Mughal empire who reigned from 1605 to 1627. History notes he was patron of the arts, so it is no surprise that he followed his father as a wonderful connoisseur of gems. Emperor Jahangir’s reign is marked by advancements in the arts and governing styles versus military achievements. His name is also inscribed on a few other beads located on the necklace.
His deep appreciation and passion for collecting important gemstones was continued by his son, Shah Jahan (1592-1666). Shah Jahan is best known for constructing the monumental Taj Mahal at Agra, one of the most magnificent architectural wonders in the world.
Predecessors to those rulers above, “The Sultan Mahmud Shah” inscribed on one bead as well – this name possibly referring to Sultan Mahmud Shah III of Gujarat. He was a ruler of the Gujarate Sultanate in the early 16th Century. Nestled in the necklace sits a bead inscribed “The Sultan Muhammad Tuqhluq”. Likely this refers to the Sultan of Delhi Muhammad Tughluq, who was the ruler of the Delhi Sultanate in the 14th Century.
Found between the three strands of alternating pearls and spinel beads sits a rich cultural history, documented with the honor and prestige one can only expect from the Mughal empire. This necklace presents an exceedingly rare opportunity to acquire a jewel of such historical provenance directly offered from a royal collection.