Drawing inspiration from the lush tropical landscapes of the Pacific, the ‘Hawaii’ collection by Van Cleef & Arpels is often described as one of the most iconic creations of the Maison. Introduced in 1938 and later presented at the New York World’s Fair in 1939, the collection is characterized by delicate clusters of vibrant floral motifs accented by colorful rubies, sapphires and diamonds. The red, blue and white hues of the blossoms were reminiscent of the Allied flags, serving as a visual metaphor for harmony and resilience during the post-war era. The collection gained increasing popularity after World War II, largely regarded as an emblem of ‘freedom-at-last.’

In addition to the floral motifs, some of the ‘Hawaii’ jewels incorporated the lovebird motif – a theme that emerged in Van Cleef & Arpels’ design in 1944 as a symbol of fidelity in love and devotion. Lovebirds of varying numbers, ranging from a pair to a brood of four, were presented along with tri-colored flowers in brooches and clips, altogether suggesting the ideas of enduring companionship and unity. Examples that appeared after 1945, such as the clip-brooch of Lot 45, often utilized cabochon gemstones to illustrate abstracted silhouettes of the bodies of birds -- a choice of material that was rarely made until then.