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Lot Essay
Oscar Heyman & Brothers played a crucial behind-the-scenes role in creating some of the most important American-made jewels for Van Cleef & Arpels. Their partnership reflects a quiet collaboration in high jewelry, where exceptional craftsmanship aligned with a maison’s creative vision to create something extraordinary.
Founded in 1912 by brothers Nathan, Oscar, and Harry Heyman, the iconic New York jewelry firm Oscar Heyman & Brothers quickly became one of America’s most distinguished houses. The brothers had emigrated from Latvia in the early 1900s, bringing with them exceptional European training and craftsmanship. Their technical precision, coupled with their pioneering expertise in working with platinum, a metal still rare in the United States at the time, set the firm apart. Throughout the first half of the twentieth century, Oscar Heyman & Brothers patented numerous innovative designs and processes, earning awards and establishing a reputation for excellence that placed them at the forefront of American jewelry design. More than a century later, this historic company remains family-owned, continuing its legacy of exceptional craftsmanship and artistry.
Celebrated for their impeccable craftsmanship and masterful use of colored gemstones, Oscar Heyman & Brothers earned the reputation of being the “jeweler’s jeweler.” The firm created exquisite pieces on special commission for many of the world’s most prestigious retailers, including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Marcus & Co., Tiffany & Co. and Black, Starr & Frost. When Van Cleef & Arpels expanded into the United States in the late 1930s, they needed a workshop capable of translating Parisian design into flawless American-made pieces. Oscar Heyman & Brothers emerged as a premier collaborator.
The synergy between the two houses was defined by shared values: precision, coherence of design, and devotion to the beauty of colored stones. Oscar Heyman & Brothers constructed nearly all of the American made invisibly-set jewelry for Van Cleef & Arpels. Heyman’s extensive experience in calibré cutting and precise stone setting helped support the ambitious color-driven designs that Van Cleef & Arpels envisioned. They were the only jeweler in the United States that was capable of executing this incredibly intricate technique, a true testament to the quality of their craftsmanship.
Jewels produced through this partnership hold a distinguished place in the history of high jewelry. They unite the creative identity of one of France's most storied houses with the technical brilliance of one of America's finest jewelry ateliers. Rare and meticulously constructed, these jewels are now highly prized by collectors who recognize the unique artistry forged by this transatlantic collaboration.
Founded in 1912 by brothers Nathan, Oscar, and Harry Heyman, the iconic New York jewelry firm Oscar Heyman & Brothers quickly became one of America’s most distinguished houses. The brothers had emigrated from Latvia in the early 1900s, bringing with them exceptional European training and craftsmanship. Their technical precision, coupled with their pioneering expertise in working with platinum, a metal still rare in the United States at the time, set the firm apart. Throughout the first half of the twentieth century, Oscar Heyman & Brothers patented numerous innovative designs and processes, earning awards and establishing a reputation for excellence that placed them at the forefront of American jewelry design. More than a century later, this historic company remains family-owned, continuing its legacy of exceptional craftsmanship and artistry.
Celebrated for their impeccable craftsmanship and masterful use of colored gemstones, Oscar Heyman & Brothers earned the reputation of being the “jeweler’s jeweler.” The firm created exquisite pieces on special commission for many of the world’s most prestigious retailers, including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Marcus & Co., Tiffany & Co. and Black, Starr & Frost. When Van Cleef & Arpels expanded into the United States in the late 1930s, they needed a workshop capable of translating Parisian design into flawless American-made pieces. Oscar Heyman & Brothers emerged as a premier collaborator.
The synergy between the two houses was defined by shared values: precision, coherence of design, and devotion to the beauty of colored stones. Oscar Heyman & Brothers constructed nearly all of the American made invisibly-set jewelry for Van Cleef & Arpels. Heyman’s extensive experience in calibré cutting and precise stone setting helped support the ambitious color-driven designs that Van Cleef & Arpels envisioned. They were the only jeweler in the United States that was capable of executing this incredibly intricate technique, a true testament to the quality of their craftsmanship.
Jewels produced through this partnership hold a distinguished place in the history of high jewelry. They unite the creative identity of one of France's most storied houses with the technical brilliance of one of America's finest jewelry ateliers. Rare and meticulously constructed, these jewels are now highly prized by collectors who recognize the unique artistry forged by this transatlantic collaboration.