The restrictions and rations of World War II spurred jewelry designers into a wave of innovation when faced with a scarcity of metal and gemstones, wartime austerity in disposable income, and the desires of women taking on new roles in the workforce. Jewelers had to do more with less, leading to a rise in convertible jewelry: pieces that can be worn in multiple ways, serving multiple purposes. Designs became mechanically ingenious, featuring hidden hinges, clasps, and screw mechanisms that allowed parts to detach or reconfigure easily. Women working by day and socializing by night could transform their jewels to suit the occasion. The present lot, a glamourous emerald and diamond necklace with removable elements that can be separated into two brooches, is an example of such innovation.

Convertible jewelry predates the war, but popular messaging about supporting the troops and avoiding excess amplified its appeal. The retro glamour of the era with an aesthetic leaning towards bolder, sculptural curves was dramatic yet optimistic, mirroring the hope of recovery. After the war, as prosperity returned, the demand for the practicality of convertible jewelry declined, but the ingenuity of wartime design left a lasting mark on mid-century jewelry trends. The legacy of convertible jewelry is one of adaptability, resilience, and innovation, much like the women who wore it.