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Lot Essay
Created in 1984, this spectacular neo-vintage high jewellery reference 5562BA perpetual calendar with moon phases is one of only 18 pieces produced in yellow gold between 1981 and 1989. Made during female watch designer Jacqueline Dimier’s celebrated stewardship of AP, this model features a stunning diamond and ruby set bezel and integral solid gold mesh bracelet. It embodies both ultimate excellence in watch making technology and the skill of the master jeweller. In the past almost 40 years, only one or two other examples of this reference have ever appeared on the open market.
The beauty and rarity of perfectly matched precious stones is widely appreciated, and for Audemars Piguet, naturally only perfection is acceptable. Discreetly lavish, this model is one of the most elusive and exclusive of all AP’s neo-vintage gem-set timepieces. The bezel is set with 40 round white diamonds weighing a total of 1,18 carats, and 8 rubies totalling 0.35 carats. The hour markers of the dial are also set with round diamonds. The movement is AP’s revolutionary caliber 2120 launched in 1978. This automatic caliber was a game-changer for Audemars Piguet because the ultra-thin underdial work of the perpetual calendar combined with the world’s thinnest self-winding movement resulted in a total movement height of just 3.95 mm. The perpetual calendar display of this reference is without a four-year leap-year cycle indication because it was made before AP’s reintroduction of the leap-year indication in 1993. The perpetual calendar mechanism not only self-adjusts for the number of days in the month but also calculates the correct adjustment for the leap-years.
This magnificent diamond and ruby-set automatic perpetual calendar moon phase encapsulates the perfect combination of mechanical complexity, iconic design and ultimate exclusivity – undoubtedly one of the most noble specimens of an AP perpetual calendar moon phase automatic wristwatch in existence, it affords collectors with perhaps a once in a generation opportunity to possess this astonishing timepiece.
The beauty and rarity of perfectly matched precious stones is widely appreciated, and for Audemars Piguet, naturally only perfection is acceptable. Discreetly lavish, this model is one of the most elusive and exclusive of all AP’s neo-vintage gem-set timepieces. The bezel is set with 40 round white diamonds weighing a total of 1,18 carats, and 8 rubies totalling 0.35 carats. The hour markers of the dial are also set with round diamonds. The movement is AP’s revolutionary caliber 2120 launched in 1978. This automatic caliber was a game-changer for Audemars Piguet because the ultra-thin underdial work of the perpetual calendar combined with the world’s thinnest self-winding movement resulted in a total movement height of just 3.95 mm. The perpetual calendar display of this reference is without a four-year leap-year cycle indication because it was made before AP’s reintroduction of the leap-year indication in 1993. The perpetual calendar mechanism not only self-adjusts for the number of days in the month but also calculates the correct adjustment for the leap-years.
This magnificent diamond and ruby-set automatic perpetual calendar moon phase encapsulates the perfect combination of mechanical complexity, iconic design and ultimate exclusivity – undoubtedly one of the most noble specimens of an AP perpetual calendar moon phase automatic wristwatch in existence, it affords collectors with perhaps a once in a generation opportunity to possess this astonishing timepiece.