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Lot Essay
Christie’s is thrilled to present for the first time at auction this extraordinary yellow gold Nautilus reference 3700⁄1, made for His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman in 1978. Among the rarest and most elusive of all vintage gold Nautilus watches, the present example is, to the best of our knowledge, fresh to the market and was previously unknown to scholars and collectors.
Until the discovery of the present watch, only five examples of the yellow gold reference 3700 with ‘Khanjar’ dial were publicly known. This remarkable watch, now the sixth known example, therefore represents one of the most important additions to the scholarship surrounding the legendary reference in recent years. Adding further to its significance, it has survived in superb original condition. The dial remains completely untouched and is beginning to display the first signs of tropicalisation at its centre, notably between 3 and 4 o’clock, while the gold-coloured ‘Khanjar’ emblem of the Sultanate of Oman is beautifully printed above 6 o’clock. The last three digits of the case number, ‘366’, are correctly engraved to the underside of the bezel.
Of exceptional importance, the present timepiece comes directly from its original owner, who worked in close proximity to His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said. Its provenance is accompanied by the recipient’s own remarkable account of his relationship with the Sultan and of the circumstances that ultimately led to him receiving the present watch.
As a young man, during his first meeting with Sultan Qaboos at the Palace, the future owner was asked the time. Not wearing a watch, he was unable to answer. The Sultan consequently gave him a wristwatch, a gesture whose deeper significance the recipient admits he did not fully appreciate at the time. On subsequent occasions, the Sultan noticed that he was again without the watch. When told that it had first been forgotten and later lost, His Majesty expressed his disappointment, impressing upon the young man the importance of respecting time and the responsibility associated with something that had been entrusted to him.
The lesson continued. After seeing him wearing an inexpensive replacement watch, Sultan Qaboos reminded him of the significance of the watch he had originally been given and subsequently instructed him not to wear a watch while on duty. Yet he continued to ask him the time. Faced with the challenge of answering without consulting a timepiece, the young man gradually learned to observe the passage of the hours and minutes and to estimate the time with increasing accuracy. Eventually, when his answers became consistently close, the Sultan would tell him that his affairs were ‘in good order’.
Only with time did the recipient come to understand that these exchanges were never simply about knowing the hour. As he recalls, they were lessons in ‘discipline, attentiveness, responsibility, and respect for the value of every moment’. The present Patek Philippe Nautilus was subsequently bestowed upon him by Sultan Qaboos and became far more than a precious object: it embodied the trust placed in him and the lessons learned during his years of service. Preserved by its recipient ever since, the watch remains for him a lasting reminder of the man who taught him to value time.
With movement no. 1’305’233 and case no. 537’366, the present watch is the latest-numbered example of the six so far discovered. Significantly, the known timepieces bear movement and case numbers in extremely close proximity, in some instances separated by only two or three numbers. Further strengthening the connection between these examples, another timepiece shares the exact same date of sale as the present timepiece, 23 November 1978. This remarkable proximity in numbering and identical date of sale strongly indicates that the watches formed part of a specially designated order produced for His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said.
A man of undeniably exquisite taste and a renowned watch enthusiast, His Late Majesty Sultan Qaboos owned and presented innumerable timepieces as gifts during his reign. Today, some of these watches occupy an almost mythical position in collecting circles and rank among the most coveted examples of their respective references. Watches were bestowed upon loyal servants, members of the administration and citizens in recognition of outstanding service or to commemorate important occasions, with the significance of the gift reflected in the timepiece selected, from relatively simple watches to exceptional creations by Patek Philippe.
Combining the landmark design of the original Nautilus with the extraordinary rarity and historical importance of an Omani royal commission, the present reference 3700⁄1 occupies a privileged position within two highly specialised fields of collecting. For both the dedicated Nautilus collector and the connoisseur of Omani ‘Khanjar’ watches, its discovery represents an exceptionally rare opportunity to acquire one of the most exclusive and historically significant variations of Patek Philippe’s celebrated sports watch.
The dial
Made by Stern Frères, the beautifully preserved dial remains in remarkable original condition and is beginning to display the earliest signs of tropicalisation. The luminous material of the indexes and hands has aged uniformly to an attractive tone, while the gold-coloured ‘Khanjar’ emblem is delicately printed above 6 o’clock. Reserved for watches associated with the Sultanate of Oman and the court of Sultan Qaboos, this discreet emblem transforms an already rare yellow gold reference 3700 into a watch of exceptional historical significance.
The case
The patent for the original Nautilus reference 3700⁄1 case design was registered on 23 April 1976. From 1976 until 1981, the cases were made for Patek Philippe by Favre-Perret SA of Le Crêt-du-Locle, before production was transferred to Patek Philippe’s own Ateliers Réunis workshops.
Ingeniously constructed from two principal parts, the main case body and the bezel, the case features an ‘ear’ on either side that couples with a corresponding flange, the components being secured by lateral screws. A rubber seal positioned between the bezel and case body is compressed under water pressure, creating the watertight construction that was fundamental to the original Nautilus concept.
The movement: calibre 28-255C
Widely regarded as one of the finest automatic movements of its era, Patek Philippe’s calibre 28-255C was based on the celebrated Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 920 introduced in 1967. Measuring only 3.15 mm in thickness, its exceptionally slender construction made it ideally suited to the elegant profile of the original Nautilus.
Development of the calibre 920 was partly financed by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, creating a fascinating mechanical connection between three of the great integrated-bracelet sports watches of the period. Audemars Piguet adapted the movement as its celebrated calibre 2120, famously used in the Royal Oak, while Vacheron Constantin employed its own version as calibre 1120.
The calibre 28-255C measures 12.5 lignes, has 36 jewels and beats at 19,800 vibrations per hour. It is equipped with a shock-protected, free-sprung Gyromax balance with eight adjustable weights, allowing regulation without a conventional regulator index. Its ingenious winding system employs a beryllium rotor ring with a 21-carat gold rim, supported around its periphery by four ruby rollers, allowing efficient automatic winding without compromising the remarkable thinness of the movement.
The bracelet
The present watch retains the wider 16 mm. bracelet correct for the period and, importantly, one of the rarely encountered early examples made by the revered bracelet specialist Gay Frères. Celebrated for the exceptional quality of its work for many of Switzerland’s greatest watchmakers, Gay Frères set a benchmark for bracelet manufacture during the 20th century. Early Nautilus bracelets produced by the firm are today particularly prized by collectors and represent an important feature of the present watch.
His Majesty Sultan Qaboos Bin Said Al Said (1940–2020)
Born on 18 November 1940 in Salalah, Dhofar, Sultan Qaboos was the only son of Sultan Said bin Taimur and Princess Mazoon al-Mashani. His education took place in Salalah and India before continuing in England. At the age of 20, he entered the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst and subsequently served with the Cameronians (Scottish Rifles) in Germany.
Sultan Qaboos ascended to the throne on 23 July 1970 and presided over a period of profound transformation in Oman. Revenues from the country’s oil resources were directed towards modernisation and the development of infrastructure, healthcare and education, while Oman considerably expanded its international relationships. His policy of maintaining constructive relations with countries across geopolitical divides also enabled Oman to play an important diplomatic role, notably as an intermediary between Iran and the United States.
Beyond his celebrated appreciation of fine watches, Sultan Qaboos had a deep interest in music and was particularly passionate about classical music and the pipe organ. His patronage of the arts formed another aspect of the extraordinary cultural legacy of one of the Middle East’s longest-serving modern rulers.
Until the discovery of the present watch, only five examples of the yellow gold reference 3700 with ‘Khanjar’ dial were publicly known. This remarkable watch, now the sixth known example, therefore represents one of the most important additions to the scholarship surrounding the legendary reference in recent years. Adding further to its significance, it has survived in superb original condition. The dial remains completely untouched and is beginning to display the first signs of tropicalisation at its centre, notably between 3 and 4 o’clock, while the gold-coloured ‘Khanjar’ emblem of the Sultanate of Oman is beautifully printed above 6 o’clock. The last three digits of the case number, ‘366’, are correctly engraved to the underside of the bezel.
Of exceptional importance, the present timepiece comes directly from its original owner, who worked in close proximity to His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said. Its provenance is accompanied by the recipient’s own remarkable account of his relationship with the Sultan and of the circumstances that ultimately led to him receiving the present watch.
As a young man, during his first meeting with Sultan Qaboos at the Palace, the future owner was asked the time. Not wearing a watch, he was unable to answer. The Sultan consequently gave him a wristwatch, a gesture whose deeper significance the recipient admits he did not fully appreciate at the time. On subsequent occasions, the Sultan noticed that he was again without the watch. When told that it had first been forgotten and later lost, His Majesty expressed his disappointment, impressing upon the young man the importance of respecting time and the responsibility associated with something that had been entrusted to him.
The lesson continued. After seeing him wearing an inexpensive replacement watch, Sultan Qaboos reminded him of the significance of the watch he had originally been given and subsequently instructed him not to wear a watch while on duty. Yet he continued to ask him the time. Faced with the challenge of answering without consulting a timepiece, the young man gradually learned to observe the passage of the hours and minutes and to estimate the time with increasing accuracy. Eventually, when his answers became consistently close, the Sultan would tell him that his affairs were ‘in good order’.
Only with time did the recipient come to understand that these exchanges were never simply about knowing the hour. As he recalls, they were lessons in ‘discipline, attentiveness, responsibility, and respect for the value of every moment’. The present Patek Philippe Nautilus was subsequently bestowed upon him by Sultan Qaboos and became far more than a precious object: it embodied the trust placed in him and the lessons learned during his years of service. Preserved by its recipient ever since, the watch remains for him a lasting reminder of the man who taught him to value time.
With movement no. 1’305’233 and case no. 537’366, the present watch is the latest-numbered example of the six so far discovered. Significantly, the known timepieces bear movement and case numbers in extremely close proximity, in some instances separated by only two or three numbers. Further strengthening the connection between these examples, another timepiece shares the exact same date of sale as the present timepiece, 23 November 1978. This remarkable proximity in numbering and identical date of sale strongly indicates that the watches formed part of a specially designated order produced for His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said.
A man of undeniably exquisite taste and a renowned watch enthusiast, His Late Majesty Sultan Qaboos owned and presented innumerable timepieces as gifts during his reign. Today, some of these watches occupy an almost mythical position in collecting circles and rank among the most coveted examples of their respective references. Watches were bestowed upon loyal servants, members of the administration and citizens in recognition of outstanding service or to commemorate important occasions, with the significance of the gift reflected in the timepiece selected, from relatively simple watches to exceptional creations by Patek Philippe.
Combining the landmark design of the original Nautilus with the extraordinary rarity and historical importance of an Omani royal commission, the present reference 3700⁄1 occupies a privileged position within two highly specialised fields of collecting. For both the dedicated Nautilus collector and the connoisseur of Omani ‘Khanjar’ watches, its discovery represents an exceptionally rare opportunity to acquire one of the most exclusive and historically significant variations of Patek Philippe’s celebrated sports watch.
The dial
Made by Stern Frères, the beautifully preserved dial remains in remarkable original condition and is beginning to display the earliest signs of tropicalisation. The luminous material of the indexes and hands has aged uniformly to an attractive tone, while the gold-coloured ‘Khanjar’ emblem is delicately printed above 6 o’clock. Reserved for watches associated with the Sultanate of Oman and the court of Sultan Qaboos, this discreet emblem transforms an already rare yellow gold reference 3700 into a watch of exceptional historical significance.
The case
The patent for the original Nautilus reference 3700⁄1 case design was registered on 23 April 1976. From 1976 until 1981, the cases were made for Patek Philippe by Favre-Perret SA of Le Crêt-du-Locle, before production was transferred to Patek Philippe’s own Ateliers Réunis workshops.
Ingeniously constructed from two principal parts, the main case body and the bezel, the case features an ‘ear’ on either side that couples with a corresponding flange, the components being secured by lateral screws. A rubber seal positioned between the bezel and case body is compressed under water pressure, creating the watertight construction that was fundamental to the original Nautilus concept.
The movement: calibre 28-255C
Widely regarded as one of the finest automatic movements of its era, Patek Philippe’s calibre 28-255C was based on the celebrated Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 920 introduced in 1967. Measuring only 3.15 mm in thickness, its exceptionally slender construction made it ideally suited to the elegant profile of the original Nautilus.
Development of the calibre 920 was partly financed by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, creating a fascinating mechanical connection between three of the great integrated-bracelet sports watches of the period. Audemars Piguet adapted the movement as its celebrated calibre 2120, famously used in the Royal Oak, while Vacheron Constantin employed its own version as calibre 1120.
The calibre 28-255C measures 12.5 lignes, has 36 jewels and beats at 19,800 vibrations per hour. It is equipped with a shock-protected, free-sprung Gyromax balance with eight adjustable weights, allowing regulation without a conventional regulator index. Its ingenious winding system employs a beryllium rotor ring with a 21-carat gold rim, supported around its periphery by four ruby rollers, allowing efficient automatic winding without compromising the remarkable thinness of the movement.
The bracelet
The present watch retains the wider 16 mm. bracelet correct for the period and, importantly, one of the rarely encountered early examples made by the revered bracelet specialist Gay Frères. Celebrated for the exceptional quality of its work for many of Switzerland’s greatest watchmakers, Gay Frères set a benchmark for bracelet manufacture during the 20th century. Early Nautilus bracelets produced by the firm are today particularly prized by collectors and represent an important feature of the present watch.
His Majesty Sultan Qaboos Bin Said Al Said (1940–2020)
Born on 18 November 1940 in Salalah, Dhofar, Sultan Qaboos was the only son of Sultan Said bin Taimur and Princess Mazoon al-Mashani. His education took place in Salalah and India before continuing in England. At the age of 20, he entered the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst and subsequently served with the Cameronians (Scottish Rifles) in Germany.
Sultan Qaboos ascended to the throne on 23 July 1970 and presided over a period of profound transformation in Oman. Revenues from the country’s oil resources were directed towards modernisation and the development of infrastructure, healthcare and education, while Oman considerably expanded its international relationships. His policy of maintaining constructive relations with countries across geopolitical divides also enabled Oman to play an important diplomatic role, notably as an intermediary between Iran and the United States.
Beyond his celebrated appreciation of fine watches, Sultan Qaboos had a deep interest in music and was particularly passionate about classical music and the pipe organ. His patronage of the arts formed another aspect of the extraordinary cultural legacy of one of the Middle East’s longest-serving modern rulers.