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Lot Essay
The rarest of all perpetual calendar wristwatches produced in series by Patek Philippe, this superb reference 2438⁄1 exudes the distinctive and almost magical vintage appeal of the company’s mid-century complicated wristwatches. With a total production believed to comprise only around 65 pieces in yellow and pink gold, it is by far the rarest serially produced perpetual calendar model by the manufacture. More significantly, reference 2438⁄1 was the world’s first serially produced waterproof perpetual calendar wristwatch, an extraordinarily forward-thinking proposition for the early 1950s. Indeed, the market was perhaps not yet ready for such a timepiece: following its discontinuation, no comparable serially produced water-resistant perpetual calendar wristwatch would appear for decades.
Launched in 1951 alongside its non-waterproof sibling, reference 2497, reference 2438⁄1 remained in production until 1963. Adding another important chapter to their history, the two references were Patek Philippe’s first serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatches with centre seconds. Following their discontinuation, the manufacture would not revisit this combination until 1993 with the introduction of reference 5050.
Aesthetically, reference 2438⁄1 is a masterpiece of mid-century horological design, characterised by beautifully balanced symmetry, spectacular curves and generous proportions. Its architecture bears a close resemblance to the legendary reference 2499, introduced at approximately the same time and, with few exceptions, made by the same celebrated casemaker, Wenger. The two references consequently share much of the same design language, the principal visual differences being the absence of the chronograph complication on reference 2438⁄1 and the relocation of the running seconds from 9 o’clock to the centre.
It is believed that only approximately 50 examples of reference 2438⁄1 were made in yellow gold, of which around 30 are publicly known today. The reference is generally divided into two series. First-series watches feature applied Arabic numerals and feuille hands, while second-series examples are distinguished by applied baton numerals and dauphine hands. The second series can be further separated into two dial variations: Mark I, with five-faceted hour markers, as seen on the present timepiece, and Mark II, with rectangular four-faceted hour markers.
Made by Stern Frères on a solid gold base, the dial is finished with an elegant opaline-matte surface. All inscriptions, scales and details are engraved and enamelled, exemplifying the exceptional quality of Patek Philippe’s dial production during the period. The English-language calendar discs are fashioned from silvered gold, while the moon-phase disc is handmade in gold with champlevé blue enamel applied by a master enameller.
The addition of centre seconds could not simply be achieved by adapting the calibre 13’’-130 employed in reference 2499. Patek Philippe therefore turned to the calibre 27SC, regarded as one of the finest centre-seconds movements of its era, and developed a perpetual calendar module specifically for it. The resulting calibre 27SCQ, Seconde au Centre Quantième, was used for references 2438⁄1 and 2497.
Only 179 consecutively numbered movements, from 888’000 to 888’178, were produced. Such consecutive movement numbering is highly unusual for Patek Philippe and is not found among the manufacture’s other vintage perpetual calendar models, further underlining the exceptional nature and importance of the project within Patek Philippe’s complicated wristwatch production of the period.
Further enhancing the appeal of the present example is its remarkable personal history, beautifully illustrated by the engraving on the caseback reading ‘Per il tuo 50 esimo, Nada e Renzo, 19.1.1963’, translating from Italian as ‘For your 50th, Nada and Renzo, 19 January 1963’. This touching inscription suggests that the timepiece was originally presented as a gift to celebrate a 50th birthday, lending a particularly intimate dimension to an already exceptional timepiece. Remarkably, the watch is still accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin and envelope, a highly desirable survival for a complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch of this period. Appearing on the market for only the second time, the present reference 2438⁄1 offers collectors the rare opportunity to acquire one of the manufacture’s most elusive perpetual calendar wristwatches, distinguished not only by its historical and technical importance but also by its evocative provenance.
Launched in 1951 alongside its non-waterproof sibling, reference 2497, reference 2438⁄1 remained in production until 1963. Adding another important chapter to their history, the two references were Patek Philippe’s first serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatches with centre seconds. Following their discontinuation, the manufacture would not revisit this combination until 1993 with the introduction of reference 5050.
Aesthetically, reference 2438⁄1 is a masterpiece of mid-century horological design, characterised by beautifully balanced symmetry, spectacular curves and generous proportions. Its architecture bears a close resemblance to the legendary reference 2499, introduced at approximately the same time and, with few exceptions, made by the same celebrated casemaker, Wenger. The two references consequently share much of the same design language, the principal visual differences being the absence of the chronograph complication on reference 2438⁄1 and the relocation of the running seconds from 9 o’clock to the centre.
It is believed that only approximately 50 examples of reference 2438⁄1 were made in yellow gold, of which around 30 are publicly known today. The reference is generally divided into two series. First-series watches feature applied Arabic numerals and feuille hands, while second-series examples are distinguished by applied baton numerals and dauphine hands. The second series can be further separated into two dial variations: Mark I, with five-faceted hour markers, as seen on the present timepiece, and Mark II, with rectangular four-faceted hour markers.
Made by Stern Frères on a solid gold base, the dial is finished with an elegant opaline-matte surface. All inscriptions, scales and details are engraved and enamelled, exemplifying the exceptional quality of Patek Philippe’s dial production during the period. The English-language calendar discs are fashioned from silvered gold, while the moon-phase disc is handmade in gold with champlevé blue enamel applied by a master enameller.
The addition of centre seconds could not simply be achieved by adapting the calibre 13’’-130 employed in reference 2499. Patek Philippe therefore turned to the calibre 27SC, regarded as one of the finest centre-seconds movements of its era, and developed a perpetual calendar module specifically for it. The resulting calibre 27SCQ, Seconde au Centre Quantième, was used for references 2438⁄1 and 2497.
Only 179 consecutively numbered movements, from 888’000 to 888’178, were produced. Such consecutive movement numbering is highly unusual for Patek Philippe and is not found among the manufacture’s other vintage perpetual calendar models, further underlining the exceptional nature and importance of the project within Patek Philippe’s complicated wristwatch production of the period.
Further enhancing the appeal of the present example is its remarkable personal history, beautifully illustrated by the engraving on the caseback reading ‘Per il tuo 50 esimo, Nada e Renzo, 19.1.1963’, translating from Italian as ‘For your 50th, Nada and Renzo, 19 January 1963’. This touching inscription suggests that the timepiece was originally presented as a gift to celebrate a 50th birthday, lending a particularly intimate dimension to an already exceptional timepiece. Remarkably, the watch is still accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin and envelope, a highly desirable survival for a complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch of this period. Appearing on the market for only the second time, the present reference 2438⁄1 offers collectors the rare opportunity to acquire one of the manufacture’s most elusive perpetual calendar wristwatches, distinguished not only by its historical and technical importance but also by its evocative provenance.