OCTAGONAL ALLONGÉE 1990 MODEL, NO. 65227, CASE AND CLASP WITH LONDON HALLMARKS FOR 1990

Signed Cartier London and dated 1990 on both the case and clasp, together with London hallmarks for that year, the present stunning Octagonal Allongée belongs to a highly exclusive series of wristwatches specially commissioned from Cartier’s London workshops. Created to revive some of the most avant-garde designs originally produced in London during the late 1960s and early 1970s, this remarkable series encompassed the Crash, Allongée, Asymétrique and Octagonal models. Although the exact production numbers remain unknown, it is believed that only between 3 and 12 examples of each model were made, making these special commissions exceptionally rare.

Superbly executed, the present timepiece successfully captures the distinctive character and creative spirit of the original Cartier London era. Its case is fully hallmarked, engraved ‘Cartier London’, individually numbered and dated 1990, while the clasp bears corresponding inscriptions, numbering and date marks. Interestingly, unlike the original London creations, the dial of this re-edition does not bear the ‘London’ designation. The case itself represents an elongated interpretation of the traditional Octagonal design, stretched along its vertical axis to create a distinctive rectangular silhouette with chamfered corners forming eight sides. Further emphasising its extraordinary rarity, to the best of our knowledge, the present watch is the first example of the 1990 Octagonal Allongée series to appear at international auction.

During this period, Cartier’s London workshops also drew inspiration from the Maison’s extensive archives, reinterpreting historic designs through a distinctly contemporary perspective. Although the use of an octagonal case represented an unusual departure from conventional wristwatch forms, it was not entirely without precedent in Cartier’s history. The Maison had occasionally employed octagonal cases for pocket watches during the Edwardian and Art Deco periods, demonstrating an early fascination with geometric experimentation. By revisiting these historic influences while embracing the creative freedom of the period, Cartier London succeeded in developing highly original designs that remained deeply rooted in the Maison’s heritage.

Cartier’s celebrated motto, ‘Never Copy, Only Create’, has particular resonance when considering the extraordinarily imaginative wristwatches that emerged from the London workshops during the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. Each was individually handmade and produced in extremely small numbers, making these creations exceptionally difficult to obtain even at the time. Instantly recognisable and highly exclusive, Cartier London watches have today become stellar rarities among vintage wristwatches and some of the most coveted and aspirational creations for collectors of vintage Cartier.

London during the 1960s and 1970s was a centre of extraordinary cultural and creative energy, and Jean-Jacques Cartier, who had instigated the production of Cartier watches in London, sought to create wristwatches that truly reflected the spirit of the age. The designs that emerged from the workshops, including the legendary Crash and the present Octagonal Allongée, were not merely avant-garde but deliberately provocative. Their extraordinary, head-turning forms stood in complete contrast to the conservative round and rectangular wristwatches that dominated contemporary watchmaking. Faithfully reviving this remarkable design tradition, the present 1990 example represents an exceptionally rare testament to one of the most innovative and creative periods in Cartier’s history.