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Lot Essay
The present reference 5558 represents an important chapter in Audemars Piguet’s history. Powered by the celebrated calibre 2120, the present example is rendered particularly striking by its platinum case and fully skeletonised architecture. Measuring an elegant 36 mm. in diameter, it combines the refinement of a classical complicated wristwatch with the remarkable visual impact of an openworked movement.
The calibre 2120 is one of the most celebrated movements in horological history, renowned for its exceptional thinness and remarkable longevity. Developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre in collaboration with Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe, it remained for decades the thinnest automatic movement with a central rotor, distinguished by its ingenious construction and 21k gold-rimmed oscillating weight. Building upon the success of reference 5548, Audemars Piguet subsequently introduced reference 5558, the manufacture’s first skeletonised perpetual calendar wristwatch. According to research, only 219 examples were produced, of which just 69 were cased in platinum, as with the present watch.
Beyond its rarity, the artistic execution of the watch is exceptional. Legibility can often present a challenge in skeletonised watches, particularly when combined with indications extending beyond simple timekeeping. Here, however, the design has been remarkably well resolved. Deep blue chapter rings surrounding the subsidiary counters provide a strong visual contrast against the openworked movement, allowing the perpetual calendar indications to remain immediately legible. The use of blue is itself noteworthy, being a colour traditionally associated by Audemars Piguet with its platinum timepieces.
A particularly interesting and highly personal detail can be found on the engraved rotor. Rather than bearing the customary ‘AP’ initials, it is instead engraved ‘AM’, most probably representing the initials of the original owner and suggesting that the watch was specially personalised at the time of its creation. The rotor is further engraved with the date ‘23.10.1984’, adding another intriguing and highly individual detail to this exceptional timepiece.
The calibre 2120 is one of the most celebrated movements in horological history, renowned for its exceptional thinness and remarkable longevity. Developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre in collaboration with Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe, it remained for decades the thinnest automatic movement with a central rotor, distinguished by its ingenious construction and 21k gold-rimmed oscillating weight. Building upon the success of reference 5548, Audemars Piguet subsequently introduced reference 5558, the manufacture’s first skeletonised perpetual calendar wristwatch. According to research, only 219 examples were produced, of which just 69 were cased in platinum, as with the present watch.
Beyond its rarity, the artistic execution of the watch is exceptional. Legibility can often present a challenge in skeletonised watches, particularly when combined with indications extending beyond simple timekeeping. Here, however, the design has been remarkably well resolved. Deep blue chapter rings surrounding the subsidiary counters provide a strong visual contrast against the openworked movement, allowing the perpetual calendar indications to remain immediately legible. The use of blue is itself noteworthy, being a colour traditionally associated by Audemars Piguet with its platinum timepieces.
A particularly interesting and highly personal detail can be found on the engraved rotor. Rather than bearing the customary ‘AP’ initials, it is instead engraved ‘AM’, most probably representing the initials of the original owner and suggesting that the watch was specially personalised at the time of its creation. The rotor is further engraved with the date ‘23.10.1984’, adding another intriguing and highly individual detail to this exceptional timepiece.