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Lot Essay
One of Audemars Piguet’s famously elegant skeletonised wristwatches, the present example from the early 1960s is a superb illustration of the intricate openworked timepieces for which the manufacture is so highly admired. An exceptionally refined luxury wristwatch, it embodies the seemingly effortless elegance that has become an unmistakable Audemars Piguet signature, reflecting the longstanding traditions and exceptional savoir-faire of the historic manufacture. To date, to the best of our knowledge, this extremely attractive square skeletonised wristwatch appears to be the only example of reference 5204BA known to the market. It will undoubtedly appeal to collectors seeking lesser-known, ‘under-the-radar’ rarities from Audemars Piguet’s historic production.
Although Audemars Piguet’s archives do not record the Hermès-related engravings found on the caseback, closer examination of the watch lends considerable weight to the possibility that Hermès in Paris was its original retailer. Particularly noteworthy are the hand-engraved inscriptions flanking the ‘Audemars Piguet’ signature on the caseback: to the left appears the number ‘95695’, most probably an inventory number, while to the right is the name ‘Hermes’, likewise engraved by hand. Further supporting this attribution is the survival of what is most probably the original gold buckle, signed ‘Hermès Paris’.
Of additional significance is the presence of a double strike of the French ‘owl’ (hibou) gold importation hallmark on the back of the upper right lug. This mark was applied to gold watches imported into France for retail sale and can also be found on a number of important gold wristwatches by various manufacturers known to have been retailed by Hermès in Paris, frequently as special orders for the firm's distinguished clientele. Together, these details provide compelling indications of a possible Hermès retail provenance, adding a particularly intriguing dimension to the rarity and appeal of the present watch.
Although Audemars Piguet’s archives do not record the Hermès-related engravings found on the caseback, closer examination of the watch lends considerable weight to the possibility that Hermès in Paris was its original retailer. Particularly noteworthy are the hand-engraved inscriptions flanking the ‘Audemars Piguet’ signature on the caseback: to the left appears the number ‘95695’, most probably an inventory number, while to the right is the name ‘Hermes’, likewise engraved by hand. Further supporting this attribution is the survival of what is most probably the original gold buckle, signed ‘Hermès Paris’.
Of additional significance is the presence of a double strike of the French ‘owl’ (hibou) gold importation hallmark on the back of the upper right lug. This mark was applied to gold watches imported into France for retail sale and can also be found on a number of important gold wristwatches by various manufacturers known to have been retailed by Hermès in Paris, frequently as special orders for the firm's distinguished clientele. Together, these details provide compelling indications of a possible Hermès retail provenance, adding a particularly intriguing dimension to the rarity and appeal of the present watch.