Lot Essay
US$18,000-20,000
Details
A VERY RARE PAIR OF DIAMOND AND GOLD CLIPS, BY SCHLUMBERGER
Designed as an asymmetrical pair of stylised exotic fruits, with pavé-set diamond leaves and pods, circa 1950
Signed by Schlumberger
In the 1930s Jean Schlumberger in collaboration with Elsa Schiaparelli produced a collection of fancy jewellery, highly baroque and surreal in design. Like many of the great artistic designers, Schlumberger is thought to have drawn his early inspiration from the highly-individual creations of Verdura. Nature provided a wealth of images for his jewellery - animals, sea creatures, birds, flowers, fruits, medicinal herbs and leaves. He even used embroidery and lace as sources for his inspiration. Schlumberger's creations seem to pulsate with life; in using flexible mountings and moving elements to increase the degree to which the gemstones could sparkle and varying their colour according to the light, he brought about the illusion of life on cold metal and stones. He made liberal use of a variety of materials, incorporating both precious and semi-precious stones as well as selective use of enamelling. To Schlumberger, the worth of a gemstone came not from its cost but from the pleasure and beauty to be derived from it. Of utmost importance was the intricate workmanship and attention to detail in every piece. Indeed were his creations so special that Tiffany honoured his talents by signing his name to his jewellery. (2)
Designed as an asymmetrical pair of stylised exotic fruits, with pavé-set diamond leaves and pods, circa 1950
Signed by Schlumberger
In the 1930s Jean Schlumberger in collaboration with Elsa Schiaparelli produced a collection of fancy jewellery, highly baroque and surreal in design. Like many of the great artistic designers, Schlumberger is thought to have drawn his early inspiration from the highly-individual creations of Verdura. Nature provided a wealth of images for his jewellery - animals, sea creatures, birds, flowers, fruits, medicinal herbs and leaves. He even used embroidery and lace as sources for his inspiration. Schlumberger's creations seem to pulsate with life; in using flexible mountings and moving elements to increase the degree to which the gemstones could sparkle and varying their colour according to the light, he brought about the illusion of life on cold metal and stones. He made liberal use of a variety of materials, incorporating both precious and semi-precious stones as well as selective use of enamelling. To Schlumberger, the worth of a gemstone came not from its cost but from the pleasure and beauty to be derived from it. Of utmost importance was the intricate workmanship and attention to detail in every piece. Indeed were his creations so special that Tiffany honoured his talents by signing his name to his jewellery. (2)