How we know your Chanel flap bag is the real deal

The House of Chanel was founded by Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel in 1910, the same year she opened her first boutique, Chanel Modes, at 21 Rue Cambon in Paris. Chanel’s first flap bag — the iconic 2.55 — first appeared in 1955 and has been reimagined many times since, most notably by Karl Lagerfeld in 1983. The first handbag Lagerfeld designed for the house — the 11.12 — retained the signature diamond quilting and elegant silhouette of the 2.55 while introducing a new set of enduring Chanel codes, including the instantly recognisable interlocking ‘CC’ turn-lock clasp.

‘Classic Chanel flap bags have become enduring symbols of sophistication and style, and are now among the most sought-after treasures in the world of handbag collecting,’ says Max Brownawell, head of Handbags and Accessories at Christie’s in New York. As demand has continued to increase, however, so too has the number of counterfeit Chanel flap bags on the market. ‘When looking to sell a classic Chanel flap bag at auction, it is important to seek advice from a trusted expert to verify its authenticity,’ says the specialist.

Here, Brownawell outlines the key steps that are required to establish whether a classic Chanel flap bag is the genuine article.

Chanel is uncompromising when it comes to materials. Classic Chanel flap bags are usually made from supple lambskin or more durable caviar leather, but all should feel luxurious to the touch. ‘Lambskin has a beautiful shine and should feel buttery and soft, while caviar leather, which is a grained calfskin, has a distinctive pebbled texture,’ says Brownawell. ‘Chanel has used different types of caviar leather over the years, and so the thickness of the leather can vary depending on the date of the bag’s release.’

In addition to the classic lambskin and caviar leather versions, Chanel has crafted its classic flaps in a variety of rare and highly sought-after materials, including alligator, python, lizard and stingray. The company stopped using genuine exotic skins in 2018, so these pieces can now command a premium at auction.

As for the interior, Chanel uses leather or high-quality fabric linings that feel smooth and substantial. ‘A cheap or flimsy interior is an immediate cause for concern,’ says Brownawell. ‘While most traditional vintage flap bags have a burgundy leather lining, other tonal shades do exist, so it’s important to check that the colour and material of the lining are consistent with the year of manufacture.’

Chanel’s diamond quilting is now one of the brand’s most distinctive motifs. ‘Chanel has no outlets and an extremely high-quality control process, so there should be no major stitching issues like fraying with a bag detailed by Chanel,’ explains Brownawell. ‘If there is, you should seek advice from a trusted expert to verify its authenticity.’

When it comes to the diamond pattern, it should be perfectly aligned, with each stitch consistent in size and tension. ‘The number of stitches on each side of the diamond panel varies depending on the size of the quilting,’ says Brownawell, explaining that the stitch count on micro-quilting will be different from that on classic quilting. ‘Each quilting size does have a specific stitch count, though, so make sure that it is in keeping with that of similar authentic models.’ The pattern should also flow seamlessly across pockets and flaps, creating an uninterrupted visual rhythm.

On authentic Chanel pieces, the metal hardware should feel weighty and cool to the touch. It should also have a luxurious shine. According to Brownawell, the form of the interlocking ‘CC’ turn-lock clasp is of paramount importance. ‘The right C overlaps the left at the top, while the left overlaps the right at the bottom,’ he says. ‘We can instantly spot when the lock’s not quite right.’

It’s also worth scrutinising the screws on the backplate of the turn-lock closure, he says. ‘Many, but not all, classic bags feature flathead — or specific star-drive — screws rather than standard Phillips-head screws.’

The colour of the hardware — whether gold-tone, silver-tone, or ruthenium — should appear rich and consistent, without signs of peeling or discolouration, and engravings should be crisp and clean, never shallow or uneven. The engraving on the backplate should read ‘Chanel Paris’. ‘The Chanel font has changed over the years, but it’s important to check that the letters are level, that they are the same size and that the spacing between them is even,’ says the specialist.

The big transition with hardware came in 2008, when Chanel stopped using 24-karat-gold-plated hardware in favour of non-precious toned alloys. ‘Chanel’s 24-karat-gold-plated hardware has a rich yellow-gold colour compared to the paler, brassier tone of the post-2008 hardware,’ says Brownawell. ‘Not surprisingly, bags made before 2008 are highly sought-after at auction.’ This material shift also resulted in a change in hardware markings. Pre-2008 gold-plated pieces often feature a tiny hallmark stamped directly onto or near the ‘CC’ turn-lock.

It’s also important to assess the quality of the zips. The zip should glide smoothly and feature metal teeth rather than plastic ones. Modern models tend to incorporate zips by high-quality manufacturers such as Lampo, YKK or DMC. ‘They should also feature a small leather tab matching the leather of the bag,’ says Brownawell.

Inside the bag, the ‘Chanel’ stamp and the ‘Made in France’ or ‘Made in Italy’ stamp should be cleanly embossed, with evenly spaced lettering. ‘Subtle variations in thickness or spacing can indicate a counterfeit,’ notes Brownawell. ‘Some vintage Chanel accessories have a “Made in Spain” stamp, so this is not automatically a cause for concern.’

It was Lagerfeld who transformed the all-metal chain strap into a leather-woven chain, enhancing both comfort and durability while lending the design a distinctly modern sensibility. On authentic bags, the leather is threaded seamlessly through the chain, maintaining consistent width and tension throughout. As for the chain, it should feel substantial, with smooth, well-finished links that do not snag or feel lightweight. ‘When authenticating Chanel bags, we always look at the end of the chain, because Chanel folds the leather in a specific way and finishes it with a specific type of stitching that we can instantly identify,’ says Brownawell.

Chanel bags made between 1986 and 2021 come with a plastic authenticity card featuring a serial number that matches the number on the sticker inside the bag. ‘Authenticity cards should be quite strong, yet also flexible,’ says the specialist. ‘We can immediately identify fake cards from their weight and feel.’ The number of digits in the serial number depends on the year the bag was made. The serial numbers on vintage pieces from 1984 to 1986 have six digits, those on bags made between 1986 and 2004 have seven, while pieces produced from 2005 onwards have eight-digit serial numbers.

The serial stickers inside the bag should be securely affixed, often with a protective film, and feature clear, legible digits. ‘The stickers should also take on a holographic rainbow appearance when tilted,’ Brownawell adds.

In 2021, Chanel replaced its authenticity cards and serial stickers with small engraved microplates (metal plaques with a serial number and logo). These are tucked into the lining of the bag and can only be scanned by authorised personnel using specialised equipment.

Over the years, Chanel has released hundreds of designs, so it is important to know the idiosyncrasies of your specific model. When it comes to the classic Chanel flap bag, the structure should be symmetrical and sturdy, and it should be possible to lie the bag flat. Brownawell notes that fake pieces may be gaping at the side, have more rounded corners and flaps that extend too far.

‘Do your research and check you are buying from a trusted and reputable seller who can guarantee the authenticity of the model,’ says Brownawell. ‘Make sure the seller is transparent about terms and conditions, and check that what you pay for the bag is in line with the market price.’

The authentication process can also be helped by documentation. ‘Vintage Chanel handbags should come with at least the authenticity card or the interior serial sticker, ideally both, for sale at auction,’ notes the specialist. ‘Exotics should also come with a permit proving that the skin was legally imported.’

Please note that while Christie’s does not offer professional authentication services on a standalone basis, all Chanel handbags offered through Christie’s are carefully reviewed by our specialists and are backed by the authenticity warranty described in the applicable Conditions of Sale

Explore Handbags and Accessories at Christie’s

Related makers: Chanel