Seven handbag trends for Spring/Summer 2026

Slouchy bags dominated the runway this season. Models carried roomy totes — often crafted from supple leather or suede — over the shoulder or by the handle. ‘The appeal of large silhouettes lies in their versatility,’ says Lucile Andreani, head of Handbags and Accessories at Christie’s in Paris. ‘They can accommodate all the essentials and take you through from day to night.’

According to Andreani, Hermès models such as the HAC, or Haut à Courroies, and the Birkin 50 are among the most popular designs at auction. ‘Collectors are rediscovering the original proportions that once defined the house and are appreciating the sculptural force of these larger models,’ she says. ‘Their relative scarcity on the secondary market only adds to their desirability.’

Classic shapes and traditional styles were reinterpreted for a new generation at many of the major houses this season. The bowler bag, for instance, was back, with sleeker proportions, architectural curves and half-moon handles; while heritage flap bags were given a fresh twist with new materials and subtle structural updates.

In recent years, the demand for reinvented classics at auction has soared. ‘We’re increasingly seeing collectors looking for exceptional models at the intersection of craftsmanship, heritage and innovation,’ says Andreani. In October 2023, Christie’s in Paris offered three unique reimagined Gucci Bamboo bags, which exemplified the maison’s artistry and rich heritage, as well as its ability to evolve and experiment.

As for Hermès, demand has never been higher for its limited-edition Birkins, notably the Shadow, the Faubourg and the So Black. ‘The maison’s special editions are released every few years, making them incredibly difficult to get one’s hands on,’ explains Andreani. ‘Each is made from start to finish by one craftsman, and offers a contemporary reinterpretation of the classic style.’

This season, models carried bags incorporating fur accents and exotic materials — notably crocodile — on the runways in London, Paris and New York. ‘Textured bags add a sense of dimension and drama to a look,’ says Andreani.

Hermès has long been known for incorporating exotic materials such as crocodile, alligator, lizard and ostrich into its bags. Today, its Himalayas — which are crafted from Nile crocodile hide and dyed to resemble the majestic, snow-capped Himalaya mountains — remain among the most coveted bags on the secondary market.

‘They are synonymous with exquisite craftsmanship, superlative design and precious materials, and so are widely considered the Holy Grail in a handbag collection,’ says Andreani. ‘Ultra-rare models, including limited editions and pristine smaller formats, remain in strong demand, yet collectors are no longer pursuing icons alone. A trophy must justify its standing through condition, rarity and a precisely calibrated estimate.’

Chain handles were one of the biggest handbag trends at the Spring/Summer 2026 shows. ‘The trend is heavily influenced by the mass nostalgia for 2016,’ says Andreani, who explains that cross-body bags with chain-handles defined the era. This season, the chain strap is being exaggerated, embellished and reimagined, appearing in oversized proportions, mixed metals and sculptural forms.

Arguably the most recognisable chain-handle handbags come from Chanel, and among the most desirable of these are the Minaudière bags: whimsical, hard-sided evening bags, often adorned with jewels, which enjoyed a resurgence of popularity under Karl Lagerfeld. They are produced in extremely limited quantities and are only available to a handful of clients — which is why they attract a lot of interest when they come to auction. In March 2026, this runway slot machine Minaudière achieved HK$203,200 (around US$26,000), more than double the high estimate.

Studs — another key trend to emerge at the SS26 shows — and elevated hardware are also proving popular with collectors right now. ‘We’ve observed growing enthusiasm for pieces that approach the level of wearable art,’ says Andreani. ‘Hermès Rock editions with studded accents, Midas-inspired interpretations, and Kellymorphose designs are highly sought-after, because they combine intricate metalwork with imaginative structure.’

In 2026, Pantone named Cloud Dancer — a soft and lofty off-white — its colour of the year. Light-coloured bags appeared on the SS26 runways, while dresses in neutral shades dominated the red carpet at many of the major awards ceremonies, including the Oscars.

‘This may explain why the desire for Hermès bags in Craie, white, cream and Gris Perle is particularly strong right now,’ says Andreani. ‘These shades reveal the precision of Hermès craftsmanship with remarkable clarity, and examples preserved in pristine condition are extremely rare.’

‘In Paris, we’re currently seeing exceptional strength in mini formats,’ says Andreani, who adds that models carried mini versions of iconic designs on the Hermès SS26 runway. ‘Pieces such as the Mini Kelly and the Birkin 25 achieve consistently strong results.’

Part of their appeal lies in their rarity, and they also align with contemporary preferences for compact silhouettes. ‘Production of these models is limited, too, so global demand remains high,’ says the specialist. ‘For collectors building a thoughtful and coherent collection, minis are a cornerstone of enduring value.’

Large statement clutches designed to be tucked under the arm, as well as sleek, compact styles intended to be held in the hand, were seen across the board this season. ‘Clutches are incredibly versatile and are equally suited to work, daytime events and special occasions,’ says Andreani.

‘Bold, bright clutches will elevate everyday outfits, while those embellished with exceptional materials or glittering hardware will complement glamorous evening ensembles.’

Handbags & Accessories takes place on 25 May 2026 at Christie’s in Hong Kong; Handbags Online is live for bidding from 28 May to 11 June (on view 5-11 June in New York); and Handbags Online: The Paris Edit is live for bidding 12-24 June (on view 19-24 June in Paris)