Jean Paul Gaultier: How fashion’s ‘enfant terrible’ redefined Hermès handbags

Jean Paul Gaultier’s tenure as Creative Director of Hermès (2003-2010) was a celebrated chapter of creative brilliance. While his haute couture-inspired ready-to-wear captivated the fashion world, his most enduring influence perhaps lies in the realm of leather goods, especially handbags. His aesthetic vision permeated the brand’s style universe. Here, we decode the most iconic Hermès bags he designed or reimagined.

So Black Collection

Arguably Jean Paul Gaultier’s most notable contribution to the Hermès bag lexicon, the So Black series was launched for Fall /Winter 2010, marking the end of his tenure at the brand. This series distinguished itself by coating all metal hardware, such as buckles, locks, and keys, on classic models in black PVD, resulting in a seamless, monochromatic aesthetic. The all black, mysterious, and disruptive collection quickly gained legendary status among collectors. It represented a bold departure from the traditional gold or palladium hardware, demonstrating that luxury could be powerful and modern in understated matte black. This focus shifted attention to the bag’s silhouette, structure, and texture of the leather.

Shadow Birkin

The innovative Shadow Birkin deconstructed the classic by flattening and geometrizing Birkin’s iconic silhouette. It removed the physical hardware, instead embossing a trompe-l’œil of the lock and clochette directly onto the leather. Futuristic in spirit, it reads as the Birkin’s ‘shadow’ or ‘architectural blueprint’. This deconstruction of a classic ushers in a more avant-garde, experimental, and subtly humorous design language for Hermès.

Kelly Pochette

Debuting on the runway in 2004, the Kelly Pochette is an extension of the classic Kelly bag. Its compact size was a quiet statement in an era of large bags. Gaultier recognized its potential, frequently featuring it in his runway shows and styling it with modern, edgy, even rock-inspired looks. This broke Kelly’s potentially staid image, showcasing its versatility and chic appeal.

So Kelly

Injecting his signature structuralist aesthetic, Gaultier radically reworked the Kelly bag’s details in an unprecedented way. The So Kelly stretches the bag’s body into an oversized, bowling bag-like bucket silhouette while retaining the classic turn-lock and double straps. Debuting for Fall/Winter 2008, this subversive design caused an immediate sensation.

Kelly Flat

Introduced for Spring/Summer 2007, the Kelly Flat was defined by softness and versatility. Gaultier forewent the Kelly bag’s original structure, flattening the entire silhouette into an elegant briefcase shape. It could be carried by hand or with a shoulder strap, showcasing a modern sleek look.

Haut à Courroies HAC

Although the HAC predates the Birkin, Gaultier gave it a contemporary reinterpretation. He emphasized its original proportions and functionality, refined its silhouette, and actively championed it in the market, bringing fresh attention to the oversized saddle carrier. Today it’s regarded as a subtler, more historically resonant alternative to the Birkin. Gaultier was the key force behind this quiet reinvention and its integration into contemporary life.

Jypsière

Gaultier fused his signature aesthetic with Hermès craftsmanship, incorporating the initial ‘J’ of his own name to create the Jypsière. True to its name, the design channels a free-spirited, gypsy-nomad sensibility. Unlike the structured Birkin or Kelly, it is softer, more relaxed, and insouciant. Introduced in 2008, this wanderlust-tinged lead style was itself an act of subversion, immediately resonating with a younger clientele seeking effortless luxury.

Jerry Chang, a specialist from Christie’s Handbags & Accessories department, distills the hallmarks of Jean Paul Gaultier’s Hermès designs into three points: ‘First, wit and subversion. Gaultier brought the drama and humor of haute couture into handbags, as seen in the Shadow Birkin’s embossed leather; Second, structuralism. He excels at deconstructing and reassembling classic silhouettes. Kelly Flat, for instance, compresses a three-dimensional bag, revealing his command of line and form; Last but not least, respect for the canon. Despite bold innovation, he never compromises Hermès’ superior craftsmanship and timeless aesthetics. Instead, he extends and reinterprets them, exemplified by the celebrated So Black series.’

During his eight-year tenure at Hermès, Jean Paul Gaultier not only left a glorious mark on ready-to-wear but also proved that classic and avant-garde can perfectly coexist through his creative reinterpretations of iconic bags like the Kelly and Birkin. The handbags designed by Gaultier remain highly coveted collector’s items today.