Watches & Wristwatches

Ref. 2523J HU DE, Cloisonné Dial ‘Eurasia’ – One of The World’s Great Vintage Patek Philippe Wristwatches

Today, a small number of wristwatches stand at the very highest level, without question regarded as great mid-century works of art, with the added fascination of being both highly portable and entirely functional. Indeed, this formidable reference 2523 two-crown world time wristwatch is also a literal work of art in featuring a breathtakingly beautiful handmade cloisonné enamel dial that is attributed to one of the most important enamel artists of the time – Marguerite Koch. Naturally, for the manufacture of a complicated wristwatch of this magnitude, Patek Philippe not only employed the best artisan dial maker but also the most skilled case maker, and fitted the finest available manually wound movement of the period adapted with the world time system by Louis Cottier himself.

Many of the finest and rarest specimens of vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches are now held by world-renowned international collectors and museums, each year fewer and fewer of the great classic references of the mid-20th century reach the open market. It is therefore an event of major significance when a truly stellar Patek Philippe legend returns to auction after long residing in such a private collection. This handmade product of the greatest minds and artistically talented craftsmen and women of the time is one of only three Patek Philippe reference 2523J HU DE to be made with a cloisonné enamel map dial depicting ‘Eurasia’ known to still exist today. Of the two other known examples, one is part of the collection of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, the other now in a private collection.

One of the undisputed giants among all vintage Patek Philippe complicated wristwatches, this historic world time watch has an immense status even amongst the ultra-rare two crown world time model. Christie’s is incredibly honoured to be able to offer this reference 2523 here at auction for the first time in over 20 years since its last public appearance in 2002. Its ultra exclusivity and desirability is further enhanced by its spectacular beauty and overall condition.

Every cloisonné dial two-crown reference 2523 is an ultimate world-class rarity, sitting alongside the other Patek Philippe wristwatch legends such as the steel reference 1518 and the first series 2499. Combining the highest degree of scarcity with the beauty and permanence of grand feu enamel artistry and the confident simplicity of 1950s design, the present reference 2523 ‘Eurasia’ represents perhaps the only remaining chance to obtain one of these masterworks from the ‘golden age’ of Patek Philippe wristwatches. It can be said without exaggeration that this watch would be a sensational centrepiece for any important international collection.

Reference 2523 was made in very small numbers indeed, a total of only 26 examples were ever made in either yellow or pink gold and one example in white gold. About a dozen examples were fitted with cloisonné dials, and of those, only three including the present watch are known with the continent of ‘Europe’ map, called ‘Eurasia’ by collectors.