A guide to suzani textiles

What is a suzani?

A suzani is a large, hand-embroidered textile panel; the word comes from the Persian word suzan, which means needle. Originating from nomadic tribes in Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and other Central Asian countries, suzanis have become highly collectable and valued for their beautiful decoration and fine craftsmanship.

When do they date from?

The rigours of a nomadic lifestyle — daily use in a yurt and exposure to the elements during migration — were not conducive to the preservation of textiles. This means it is unusual to find ‘old’ suzanis, and the oldest surviving examples are from the late 18th and early 19th centuries.

However, it’s likely they were in use long before that. In the early 15th century, Ruy Gonzáles de Clavijo, the Castilian ambassador to the court of Timur (Tamerlane), wrote detailed descriptions of embroidered textiles that were probably forerunners of the suzani.

How were suzanis originally used?

The primary use of a suzani was within the yurt (a nomadic tent), as a protective wrapping panel for textiles and belongings. They were also used as prayer mats, as bed sheets and for seating — pieces of furniture are seldom found in yurts, because they are cumbersome to move.

Suzanis had a symbolic significance, too. They were traditionally made by brides and their mothers as part of a dowry, and presented to the groom on his wedding day. They represented the binding together of two families, and were adorned with symbols of luck, health, long life and fertility.

How were they made?

Suzanis are made from cotton, sometimes silk. The pattern is first drawn onto the cotton, before being embroidered on narrow portable looms. They are usually produced in two or more pieces, meaning that they can be worked on by more than one person, before being stitched together.

Just four stitches — tambour, basma, chain and kanda-khayol — are used to realise a large variety of patterns, which traditionally include the sun and moon, flowers and creepers of the Asian steppe, leaves and vines, fruits (especially pomegranates), and occasionally fish and birds. These motifs were believed to imbue the suzanis with spiritual powers, offering protection or strength to their owners.

How can I identify an authentic suzani?

The value of suzanis is generally not high enough to create a market for fake pieces. Modern pieces should be relatively easy to spot, because the dyes used to make them are synthetic rather than natural, and lack vibrancy.

An unaltered suzani is always a good sign, regardless of age. Freshness of colour and hue are key to identifying a suzani of quality.

How should I display and care for them?

Ideally, a suzani should be hung flat on a wall. Do not be tempted to wash them yourself, because they can be extremely fragile. The best way to clean or restore your suzani is to contact an institution that specialises in textiles which can recommend an experienced restorer or, at the very least, point you in the right direction.

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