What sets watches apart is their portability. You wouldn’t buy a multimillion-dollar painting then take it with you on holiday, but I know collectors who will not think twice before slipping a Rolex Lemon Dial Paul Newman Daytona on their wrist and then hopping on a plane for a short holiday in Marrakech. There is something nice about being able to keep part of your collection with you while on the move — it’s living with beauty 24/7.
I’ve always been interested in watches, but it went up a notch during my previous job. I was commercial director at Vacheron Constantin, based here in Dubai for the Middle East and Indian sub-continent. Part of my role was being constantly immersed in the the brand’s manufacturing and craftsmanship, as well as that of its competitors, then passing that knowledge and passion on to the teams. My interest in a watch’s life-cycle — meaning its journey from inception to point of sale, then secondary-market story — grew from there.
‘Anyone with money can amass a huge stash of watches, but only someone with knowledge, a sense of aesthetics and a handle on horological history and manufacturing processes can build a formidable collection’
A good auction specialist doesn’t just need expertise — they also need social skills. Networking is a huge part of this job, and I quickly learned not to be afraid of asking for the opinion of other experts and retired watchmakers.
You need to have one finger on the market’s pulse and be able to forecast trends, while simultaneously curating an auction that has something for everyone. And, of course, honesty, integrity and trust are crucial when it comes to building relationships with collectors. Sometimes we have to tell them things they don’t want to hear.
Ten years ago, many collectors in Dubai were dubious about vintage pieces and buying on the secondary market. In 2016, we decided to test the waters with a couple of strong vintage Rolex and Patek Philippe models. I would pencil the auction dates into clients’ calendars one month prior, then urge them to use this time to peruse the catalogue and build a wish list.
We would then discuss market values, and I would encourage them to set a bidding limit and stick to it, just to avoid buyer’s remorse. Slowly but surely, this helped build a new generation of collectors in Dubai and the Middle East who were buying at auction with confidence. It has taken time, but has been well worth it.
The best collectors are those who understand the difference between collecting and accumulating. Anyone with money can amass a huge stash of watches, but only someone with the right knowledge, sense of aesthetics and a handle on horological history and manufacturing processes can build a formidable collection. Seasoned collectors don’t view watches as an asset class of collectibles only, it is a lifestyle driven by passion.
Private Sales are a crucial, albeit discreet, part of my job. The team and I complete about one important private sale a week, and sometimes it’s for a ‘grail’ watch that can be worth several million dollars. I was once able to find an elusive gold ‘Paul Newman’ with a John Player Special dial ref. 6241 in an impeccable condition for one of the biggest collectors of Rolex Daytonas, which was the missing piece of his puzzle. Condition is of utmost importance for watch collectors.
On another occasion, I managed to track down an extremely rare multi-million dollar pink-gold Patek Philippe first series reference 2499 for a client. That deal took about 50 hours of conversations after we had completed the inspection and dismantling of the watch, technical expertise and due diligence.
One of the greatest pleasures in the world of watches is discovering a watch with traits previously unknown for that particular model. When that watch happens to be one of the most in-demand Patek Philippe models, the whole world pays attention.
In 2017, Christie’s offered a previously unknown Patek Philippe reference 2497 from 1954, which had a dial configuration never seen before. On top of that, it also had the provenance of the Emperor Haile Selassie I of Ethiopia. That was a huge moment for my career and will take some beating — but I am sure there are more gems out there waiting to be discovered.
What makes a particular watch special — on a microscopic level — is how it makes you feel. That can come from the design, or the way it handles. Personally, I love it when a watchmaker gets creative and thinks outside the box, for example with unusual case shapes such as the Cartier ‘Bamboo’ (below). The dial is also important — it’s like a window onto the watch’s soul. I have grown to admire how a dial ages, developing a patina that can only come with time. In watch circles, we say that a piece ‘sings’ to you if it makes you emotional while looking a it.
The thrill of handling something very rare will never get old. In our upcoming auction we’ve got an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 4100BA that has the distinction of carrying the name of Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the current ruler of Dubai and Prime Minister of the UAE.
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To accommodate his signature on the top half of the dial, the Audemars Piguet script has been moved to the bottom half. Sheikh Mohammed’s name has appeared on vintage Rolex wristwatches in the past, but I’ve hardly ever seen it on any Audemars Piguet models.
I wear either a vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava or a vintage steel Rolex Daytona. The Patek Philippe is chic and, I believe, undervalued — you get a lot of rarity and style for your money. The Rolex is perfectly sized and weighted for my wrist, while the styling is both sporty and retro, which I love. Both these watches give me a lot of satisfaction and pleasure in my day-to-day.
Watches Online: The Dubai Edit will be open by appointment on
24 April, then on view from 25 April to 5 May