AN IMPERIAL APRICOT-GROUND TWELVE-SYMBOL DRAGON ROBE,  JIFU
清光緒 杏黃緞繡金龍十二章紋吉服袍

GUANGXU PERIOD (1875-1908)

細節
杏黃緞,圓領,襟左右開,馬蹄袖,裾四開,直立式袍。領、袖邊石青地上繡海水龍蝠紋,領、襟裝布扣五枚。袍面以彩線繡如意雲紋和十二章圖案,金線繡龍紋,間以成對的八吉祥紋,火珠、火焰於四周飄繞。下幅繡八寶立水圖案。

據《清史稿.志七十八.輿服志》記載:「龍袍,色用明黃。領、袖俱石青,片金緣。繡文金龍九。列十二章,間以五色雲。領前後正龍各一,左、右及交襟處行龍各一,袖端正龍各一。下幅八寶立水,襟左右開,棉、袷、紗、裘,各惟其時。」由此可見清代對龍袍在形制、製作工藝、裝飾圖案以及對於衣服的色彩上都規定得十分嚴謹苛刻。

此袍傳源自二十世紀初歐洲私人收藏。
來源
A European private collection since the early 20th century, by repute

榮譽呈獻

Nick Wilson
Nick Wilson

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拍品專文

It is very rare to find a jifu embroidered with the twelve symbols of Imperial authority, reserved exclusively for the emperor, but on an apricot ground, the colour designated to the heir apparent. This suggests the current robe dates to the late Qing period, when Imperial control declined and dress regulation in the Imperial court became less strict. It is also characteristic of robes from the nineteenth century when Imperial imagery became less significant while other auspicious decorative elements like the Eight Buddhist Emblems became popular. See Valery M. Garrett, Chinese Clothing: An Illustrated Guide, Hong Kong, 1994, p. 40.

Compare to an earlier apricot-ground jifu dated to the Jiaqing period but without the twelve Imperial symbols, illustrated in Heavenly Splendour: The Edrina Collection of Ming and Qing Imperial Costumes, Hong Kong, 2009, pl. 28; another similar example, also without the twelve symbols and dated to the Tongzhi period, ibid, pl. 30.

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