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Lot Essay
The present pink gold ref. 605 HU is a superb and extremely well preserved example of Patek Philippe’s world time watches with cloisonné enamel dial.
Patek Philippe's reference 605 HU (Heure Universelles) World Time dress watches with cloisonné enamel dial are among the most beautiful horological masterpieces of the company’s 20th century production. The reference was one of the earliest to use Louis Cottier’s world time system and each watch was made under Cottier’s direct supervision.
From 1939 to 1964 Louis Cottier and Patek Philippe produced a total of 95 pieces, for a total production of 68 watches in yellow gold and 27 in pink gold. Reference 605 was available with a plain metal dial or a unique cloisonné enamel dial. The latter could depict individual continents, hemispheres or even the entire planet.
Today only around 12 surviving examples cased in pink gold are known with cloisonné dials, however only four, including the present watch, decorated with the map of North America:
Movement no. 930’838 – sold Phillips Geneva, 13-14 May 2017, lot 187 (later fitted dial)
Movement no. 930’864 – sold Sotheby’s Geneva, 16 June 2020, lot 126
Movement no. 930'865 – The Present Watch
Movement no. 931'072 – sold Christie’s Geneva, 14 May 2012, lot 87
Made by the celebrated Stern Frères, the enamel dial of this watch is stamped with its movement number 930865 on its back, confirming that it had always been intended for this ref. 605 HU.
The present reference 605 HU combines all the ingredients crucial to deserve the label "a collector's dream come true": a movement of high mechanical complexity, a design of exceptional esthetical appeal and excellent original condition.
A reference 605 HU in pink gold is described and illustrated in: Patek Philippe Museum - Patek Philippe Watches - Volume II, p. 339, Inv. P-207.
Heure Universelle & Louis Cottier
The world time or “Heure Universelle” mechanism was invented in 1931 by the celebrated Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier (1894-1966). The technology was incorporated into watches by several of Switzerland's leading watch firms, including Patek Philippe (ref. 605, 1415, 2523), Vacheron & Constantin (ref. 3372), Agassiz and Rolex (ref. 4262). Cottier further improved the system in 1953 with the ability to adjust the city disk via a secondary crown, this allowed Patek Philippe to eventually patent a system in 1958 where the hour hand could be moved without affecting the regular progression of the minute hand.
Patek Philippe's reference 605 HU (Heure Universelles) World Time dress watches with cloisonné enamel dial are among the most beautiful horological masterpieces of the company’s 20th century production. The reference was one of the earliest to use Louis Cottier’s world time system and each watch was made under Cottier’s direct supervision.
From 1939 to 1964 Louis Cottier and Patek Philippe produced a total of 95 pieces, for a total production of 68 watches in yellow gold and 27 in pink gold. Reference 605 was available with a plain metal dial or a unique cloisonné enamel dial. The latter could depict individual continents, hemispheres or even the entire planet.
Today only around 12 surviving examples cased in pink gold are known with cloisonné dials, however only four, including the present watch, decorated with the map of North America:
Movement no. 930’838 – sold Phillips Geneva, 13-14 May 2017, lot 187 (later fitted dial)
Movement no. 930’864 – sold Sotheby’s Geneva, 16 June 2020, lot 126
Movement no. 930'865 – The Present Watch
Movement no. 931'072 – sold Christie’s Geneva, 14 May 2012, lot 87
Made by the celebrated Stern Frères, the enamel dial of this watch is stamped with its movement number 930865 on its back, confirming that it had always been intended for this ref. 605 HU.
The present reference 605 HU combines all the ingredients crucial to deserve the label "a collector's dream come true": a movement of high mechanical complexity, a design of exceptional esthetical appeal and excellent original condition.
A reference 605 HU in pink gold is described and illustrated in: Patek Philippe Museum - Patek Philippe Watches - Volume II, p. 339, Inv. P-207.
Heure Universelle & Louis Cottier
The world time or “Heure Universelle” mechanism was invented in 1931 by the celebrated Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier (1894-1966). The technology was incorporated into watches by several of Switzerland's leading watch firms, including Patek Philippe (ref. 605, 1415, 2523), Vacheron & Constantin (ref. 3372), Agassiz and Rolex (ref. 4262). Cottier further improved the system in 1953 with the ability to adjust the city disk via a secondary crown, this allowed Patek Philippe to eventually patent a system in 1958 where the hour hand could be moved without affecting the regular progression of the minute hand.