A rare diamond, pearl and enamel bracelet by Jules Wièse

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A rare diamond, pearl and enamel bracelet by Jules Wièse
In the Gothic style, the hexagonal-shaped centre with diamond cluster on pierced gold panel above deep blue enamel and pinned with pearls at the rims, the four oblong flanking links decorated en suite and with pearl-set baluster intersections, with pearl-set safety-chain, circa 1866, with lozenge punch J.W and two stars on the clasp (mark valid from 1844-1890), further struck with the oblong doublé punch similar to that registered by Froment-Meurice in 1866 but with the initials J.W, 17cm. long
Signed by Jules Wièse

Lot Essay

It is known that Jules Wièse and the firm of Froment-Meurice worked in close collaboration for the greater part of the 19th Century, and although their joint names appear on a number of jewels it is not known to what extent Froment-Meurice's workshop manufactured jewellery and to what extent they used outside suppliers. The above bracelet is stamped with a mark used for plated items that does not appear in the register of hallmarks in the Bureau de la Garantie in Paris. This doublé mark is very similar to that used by Froment-Meurice and registered in 1866 but the initials J.W appear instead of F.M. For a further discussion of this relationship see J. Rudoe 'François-Désiré Froment-Meurice and Jules Wièse, collaborators', The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910', 1990, pp.43-52. Cf. a gold and diamond brooch by Froment-Meurice exhibited in the 1851 Great Exhibition illus. M. Digby Wyatt, Metal-work and its Artistic Design, London, 1852, fig.6 and pl.39. French 'or doublé' was inspired by Sheffield plate but the gold coating covered the copper core rather than being fused and rolled to the copper ingot as in the Sheffield process. The technique was so successful it was adopted by Birmingham goldsmiths who termed it 'rolled gold'

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