Lot Essay
In the absence of marks one can only guess at a maker for the parure, but coral was much favoured by Robert Phillips who received an award from the King of Italy in 1870 for his encouragement of that trade. A parure of circa 1862 he made for Mrs Thomas Fairbairn is described as being mounted with 'rare pink coral' cut and polished en cabochon rather than faceted, mounted in the Etruscan style 'in rich massive gold, relieved by pale grey enamel'. See S. Bury, Jewellery 1789-1910, 1991, pl.235, p.456. Phillips was also acquainted with the Castellani family, and an observer at the Paris 1867 Exhibition considered their work in the Etruscan style equally good. See G. Munn, Castellani & Giuliano, 1984,p.175.