Drappier Brut--Vintage 1990 Charles de Gaulle's favourite Champagne comes from the most dynamic independent producer in the Aube. Drappier also vies with Serge Mathieu as this southerly district's very best producer. The company also has cellars in Reims, but the production is still heavily influenced by Aube fruit. Ultra-fruity Champagnes that quickly attain a lovely biscuity complexity. T.S.