A RED-GROUND GAUZE WOMAN'S UNOFFICIAL FORMAL ROBE

Details
A RED-GROUND GAUZE WOMAN'S UNOFFICIAL FORMAL ROBE
LATE 19TH CENTURY

Woven on the front and back with eight large roundels of cranes, butterflies and flowers, the black-ground collar and cuffs similarly decorated and bordered by gold-couched bands, all above a hem of lishui stripe beneath the terrestrial diagram, picked out in vibrant colors against a bright red ground--54½in. (138.4cm.) long

Lot Essay

A very similar embroidered robe is illustrated by John E. Vollmer, Decoding Dragons: Status Garments in Ch'ing Dynasty China, University of Oregon Museum of Art, 1983, p. 95, pl. 50. The author notes on page 199 that "red ground nonofficial formal coats for Manchu women became increasingly popular in the 19th century", and as many were decorated with long life symbols, such as the crane, in the present example, "probably served as celebratory costume for older women within Manchu families". Compare, also, a kesi example included in the inventory of Yamanaka & Company, Inc., New York, 1943, illustrated in the Catalogue, no. 1503