This diamond is a marvellous example of the Asscher-cut, described by the "Diamond Dictionary" as "a fully made emerald cut with very large corners." Unfortunately, little is known about the origins of this extremely elegant shape other than that it was named after the Asschers, a family of diamond cutters in Amsterdam who are celebrated for their cutting of the Cullinan diamond. Another well-known Asscher-cut is the Porter Rhodes, a stone of 54.99 carats, discovered by its namesake at the Kimberley Mine in the 1880s.

The present ring was designed and created by Oscar Heyman & Brothers, one of the jewellery world's most talented manufacturers. The firm was founded in 1912 by six brothers - Nathan, Oscar, Harry, George, Louis and William - all of whom had emigrated from Latvia. Nathan's gift for toolmaking, combined with the brothers' agility in producing jewels in platinum, the use of which was, as yet, rather limited in America, contributed greatly to their success. A proof of the family's talent, Oscar, prior to the establishment of Oscar Heyman & Brothers, worked for Pierre Cartier who was creating the celebrated "Garland Style" jewels. The company remains in family hands today.