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Lot Essay
Cf. Palais Galliera, "Van Cleef & Arpels", Diffusion Paris-Musées, Paris, 1992, page 67
Inspiration is sometimes born of fashion, and the historical link between Haute Joaillerie and Haute Couture designs certainly became particularly prominent in the years following the war. The indulgence and interest in luxurious fabrics and fashions, prompted by Dior's "New Look" launched in 1947, seemed to trespass into jewellery designs, as the metalwork of this period became increasingly characterized by virtuoso "trompe-l'oeil" effects, worked in such a way as to mimick the motifs or textures of fabrics. Serge, herring-bone, jersey and tulle were meticulously copied in gold, and lace and trimmings such as braid, cord, fringes, tassels, pendants and bow-knots were produced in countless different combinations and in every conceivable shape and form. In 1939 Van Cleef & Arpels produced a "Clip Noeud Dentelle", a pierced and fretted gold bow brooch embellished with diamond-set flower motifs in platinum, and many variations on this same theme, executed by the leading Houses and designers, were to appear for the next two decades, such as Mauboussin's series of bow-knots in gossamer gold lace, studded with tiny rubies and brilliants, launched in 1942. Such effects were driven by the savoir-faire of craftsmen ever in search of technical innovations in metal working, who set a new "gold standard" in design during this period.
Inspiration is sometimes born of fashion, and the historical link between Haute Joaillerie and Haute Couture designs certainly became particularly prominent in the years following the war. The indulgence and interest in luxurious fabrics and fashions, prompted by Dior's "New Look" launched in 1947, seemed to trespass into jewellery designs, as the metalwork of this period became increasingly characterized by virtuoso "trompe-l'oeil" effects, worked in such a way as to mimick the motifs or textures of fabrics. Serge, herring-bone, jersey and tulle were meticulously copied in gold, and lace and trimmings such as braid, cord, fringes, tassels, pendants and bow-knots were produced in countless different combinations and in every conceivable shape and form. In 1939 Van Cleef & Arpels produced a "Clip Noeud Dentelle", a pierced and fretted gold bow brooch embellished with diamond-set flower motifs in platinum, and many variations on this same theme, executed by the leading Houses and designers, were to appear for the next two decades, such as Mauboussin's series of bow-knots in gossamer gold lace, studded with tiny rubies and brilliants, launched in 1942. Such effects were driven by the savoir-faire of craftsmen ever in search of technical innovations in metal working, who set a new "gold standard" in design during this period.