The sobriety of the Victorian period was followed by the extravagance and sophistication of the Belle Epoque era. This period is characterised by the pursuit of luxury and enjoyment of life and so jewellery design shifted from heavy to light and delicate, which was made possible by the use of platinum. Diamonds, always of great import, were surpassed by pearls in value and desire as seen in portraits of the European Royal families during the time. The rarity and beauty of these Persian Gulf pearls is due to their size, colour, fine luster and clarity. The combination of the delicate mount and the exceptionally fine quality of the grey pearls sets this brooch apart and would allow one to describe it as exquisite.