Toilettes de Pleine 1913, 36 double fashion photographs, all dated, some inscribed Auteuil, possibly published by A. Calavas, Paris; and a folder of large photographs of Bianchini Ferier's factories, offices and exhibits; and framed photographs of Monsieur Charles Bianchini and Monsieur Ferier

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The twentieth century designs in the Bianchini Ferier archive are for the most part anonymous. A few have been attributed and placed in Cahiers Speciaux; the rest have been retained in the Studio's folders where they are accumulated year by year. Most folders appear as more than one lot and a few of the later ones are sold in small groups. Apart from the Cahiers Speciaux no mixing of the folders has occured. By 1910 almost all the designs are in bodycolour and on paper: many of them have colour charts and some have pieces cut out to ensure that colours matched. A few come with 'colourways' or fragmentary variants in colour to the one design. Since these are designs in a living working archive, the drawings are annotated by the works staff with technical details and other designs have been expanded in size by being inserted with impact adhesive, into larger sheets. Almost all are numbered. From these numbers all designs from before 1950 can be dated. After this dating has been helped by copies of printing instructions attached to the odd example or by style, or continuation of numbers. After the Second World War new techniques of design drawing appear with collage, oil paint and the use of specially prepared papers and with the last quarter of the century, plastic sheeting. A few decades are signed. But more are stamped with the designer's name. Th. Gattiker's work spans many decades but few of his rivals stamp their work before 1950: other designers and design studios labelled their product. Georges Berthier signs and names many designs in the 1940s, as do Sir Francis Rose and Peter Todd Mitchell on scarves of the 1950s. Others appear to be signed: attributions given in a consistent hand. There is little in this archive to help with attribution. A small, incomplete, group of notebooks dating from 1951 (lot 213) lists the outside designers who worked year by year, but most of the names in these can be found stamped or labelled on the designs. Few of the clients can be identified: scarves are an exception: the 'logos' of Hermes, Jacques Fath and other couturiers appear on designs and occasionally designs for packaging were produced.

細節

Toilettes de Pleine 1913, 36 double fashion photographs, all dated, some inscribed Auteuil, possibly published by A. Calavas, Paris; and a folder of large photographs of Bianchini Ferier's factories, offices and exhibits; and framed photographs of Monsieur Charles Bianchini and Monsieur Ferier
See foreword for illustrations

注意事項

No VAT will be charged on the hammer price, but VAT at 17.5% will be added to the buyer's premium which is invoiced on a VAT inclusive basis. This lot is subject to Collection and Storage Charges.

拍品專文

The fashion photographs are probably Paul Poiret's models at the races