AN EMBROIDERED RED PADDED SILK WOMAN'S UNOFFICIAL FORMAL WINTER ROBE

Details
AN EMBROIDERED RED PADDED SILK WOMAN'S UNOFFICIAL FORMAL WINTER ROBE
LATE 19TH CENTURY

Embroidered on the front and back panels in satin stitch and fine couched gold outline with eight roundels enclosing cranes surrounded by fruiting gourd vine and butterflies, picked out in vivid shades of blue, green, purple and cream against a vibrant red ground, all above the terrestrial diagram and lishui stripe at the hem, with black-ground collar and cuffs decorated with further crane roundels and insects
54 5/8in. (138.7cm.) long

Lot Essay

A very similar embroidered robe is illustrated by John E. Vollmer, Decoding Dragons: Status Garments in Ch'ing Dynasty China, University of Oregon Museum of Art, 1983, p. 95, pl. 50. The author notes on page 199 that, "red ground nonofficial formal coats for Manchu women became increasingly popular in the 19th century", and as many were decorated with long-life symbols, such as the crane in the present example, "probably served as celebratory costume for older women within Manchu families"

Compare, also, a kesi example included in the inventory of Yamanaka & Company, Inc., New York, 1943, Catalogue, no. 1503; and the gauze example sold in these rooms, March 23, 1995, lot 286