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Lot Essay

The term Holbeinesque indicates part of that Neo-Renaissance jewellery style in vogue in England during the 1860's and 1870's.

The pieces were principally pendants, usually in gold, oval in shape, adorned with bright polychrome enamel and applied with gems; the reverse was sometimes engraved with floral motifs. The inspiration came from the designs of Hans Holbein the Younger (1497-1543), painter at the court of Henry the VIII.

Jewellery in this style was presented by the three English jewelers Hankock & Co, London & Ryder and Horwell & James at the London International Exibition of 1862 and at the Exposition Universelle de Paris in 1867.

The most outstanding representation of this style is probably the Devonshire Parure, made by C.F. Hancock for the Coutess of Granville (wife of Lord Granville, nephew of the Duke of Devonshire) who worn it at the coronation of Tsar Alexander the II, in 1856. This parure is now part of the Devonshire Collection


Literature:

"The Art of the Jeweller", H. Tait, British Museum Publ. Ltd., 1984
"Castellani & Guliano", G. Munn, Trefoil Books Ltd., 1984

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