'The Khombora Cone fell far behind: the walls of Usugama, whose peaks smoking by day and burning by night resembled fumaroles from afar, changed their blue tints first for brown and then for a distinct green hue...Thence we bent northward, over rolling ground of red clay, here cultivated, there a thorny jungle, trending to Tamota, another bluff in the hill-curtain of Usumbara. The paths were crowded with a skin-clad and grass-kilted race, chiefly women and small girls...' (Zanzibar, II, pp. 190-200)