ART NOUVEAU FIRE OPAL AND ENAMEL CHOKER

Details
ART NOUVEAU FIRE OPAL AND ENAMEL CHOKER
Designed as a necklace of oval and round cabochon fire opals within green enamel frames, joined by three chains of scroll motif, mounted in 18K yellow gold (several opals crazed)--14 in., Marcus & Co.
Further details
An important leading New York firm, Marcus & Co., produced American Art Nouveau jewelry during the turn-of-the-century, and is credited with being one of the few American houses to successfully use enameling in their work
Spurred by the resumption of trade with Japan in 1854, the Art Nouveau movement flourished. Emphasis on the simplicity of design, workmanship and the use of unusual gemstones and materical signified this international movement in contrast with earlier Victorian period and Belle Epoque style. The interpretation of nature was the dominant theme; flow, movement and the human form, as well as the range and use of subtle colors and enameling techniques were employed. Frequently jewelry of this period combined expensive stones with inexpensive material, or the use of colored patinas or varying finishes elaborating on simple designs. Stones represented accents without drawing attention from the original theme.
This choker is an excellent example of jewelry produced by Marcus and Company and exemplifies the major components found in American jewelry. The use of coils about the cabochons as well as the cartouche shaped links are typical of Marcus designs and workmanship. Influenced by the French Art Nouveau movement, rococo revival motifs were often incorporated into works produced by Marcus.

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