Details
A RARE ART DECO DIAMOND BROOCH, RAYMOND TEMPLIER
Designed as twin pavé-set diamond rectangular plaques, enwrapped by an old mine-cut diamond and polished platinum diagonal ribbon band, mounted in platinum and 18K white gold, with French hallmarks, circa 1935
Signed by Raymond Templier
Following in the family business, Raymond Templier took jewelry design to a new artistic dimension, creating examples that rivaled contemporary painting and sculpture. He, along with Jean Fouquet, Gérard Sandoz and Jean Desprès, joined the Union des Artistes Modernes, an organization of architects that defended modern art. They played a principal part in the aesthetic revolution which flourished in the 1920s, becoming known as 'bijoutier-artiste' instead of 'bijoutier-joaillier.' They believed that "...a piece of jewelry, inspired directly by our contemporary aesthetic, must be simple, severe and constructed without superfluous ornament. Provided its technique and manufacture are beyond reproach, a well-designed piece of jewelry costing two hundred francs is as beautiful as an equally well-designed one costing one million."
Their abhorence of excessive decoration is reflected in the illustrated brooch, designed by Templier, in which two plane rectangles are enwrapped by a simple diagonal ribbon; the diamond-set areas harmonizing with the shiny metallic surfaces, creating a rich, yet sleek, monochromatic look.
Designed as twin pavé-set diamond rectangular plaques, enwrapped by an old mine-cut diamond and polished platinum diagonal ribbon band, mounted in platinum and 18K white gold, with French hallmarks, circa 1935
Signed by Raymond Templier
Following in the family business, Raymond Templier took jewelry design to a new artistic dimension, creating examples that rivaled contemporary painting and sculpture. He, along with Jean Fouquet, Gérard Sandoz and Jean Desprès, joined the Union des Artistes Modernes, an organization of architects that defended modern art. They played a principal part in the aesthetic revolution which flourished in the 1920s, becoming known as 'bijoutier-artiste' instead of 'bijoutier-joaillier.' They believed that "...a piece of jewelry, inspired directly by our contemporary aesthetic, must be simple, severe and constructed without superfluous ornament. Provided its technique and manufacture are beyond reproach, a well-designed piece of jewelry costing two hundred francs is as beautiful as an equally well-designed one costing one million."
Their abhorence of excessive decoration is reflected in the illustrated brooch, designed by Templier, in which two plane rectangles are enwrapped by a simple diagonal ribbon; the diamond-set areas harmonizing with the shiny metallic surfaces, creating a rich, yet sleek, monochromatic look.
Literature
For illustrations of various brooch designs by Raymond Templier see:
Sylvie Raulet, "Art Deco Jewelry", Rizzoli, New York, 1985, pp. 245-247
Sylvie Raulet, "Art Deco Jewelry", Rizzoli, New York, 1985, pp. 245-247