A BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND AMETHYST DEVANT-DE-CORSAGE, BY CARTIER
A BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND AMETHYST DEVANT-DE-CORSAGE, BY CARTIER

Details
A BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND AND AMETHYST DEVANT-DE-CORSAGE, BY CARTIER
Designed as an old-mine cut diamond pierced bow, with collet diamond aiguillettes, gathered by a circular-cut amethyst suspending a diamond ribbon drop with cushion-shaped amethyst terminal (amethyst probably of later addition), circa 1918, in a Cartier red leather case
Signed Cartier, London, Paris, New York
Literature
Sotheby's, "Fine Jewels and Jewels for the Collector", London, 13 December 1994. lot 104

Lot Essay

Jewelled devant-de-corsage or stomachers pinned to the front of the bodice, have a long-standing tradition. They were introduced in the 17th Century and from then on worn intermittently until the first decade of the 20th Century. Their size, importance and design varied throughout the centuries some of the most beautiful and delicate examples were produced during the Belle Epoque. Louis Cartier, the master of the "garland style", was certainly the creative mind behind many attractive designs for devant-de-corsage of garland, ribbon bow, foliate and entrelac-de-rubans designs produced by the firm in those years. Typical of these jewels is the monochromatic combination of diamonds and pearls set in platinum.

In 1910, when the French couturier Paul Poiret revolutionised female fashion by liberating women from corsets and introducing fluid tunic dresses underlined by a cord or ribbon under the bust, jewelled stomacher became obsolete and out of fashion. This explains why the fine examples of devant-de-corsages such as the one described above are rare, having been altered, and in very many cases reduced in size, in order to adapt the new requirements of the modern dress.

A diamond corsage ornament decorated with similar ribbon bow and aiguillette motifs is illustrated in: H. Nadelhoffer, Cartier, Jewelers Extraordinary, London and New York, 1984, no 738, page 55

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