A PAIR OF UPPER MISSOURI RIVER PONY BEADED HIDE MOCCASINS
A PAIR OF UPPER MISSOURI RIVER PONY BEADED HIDE MOCCASINS

POSSIBLY MANDAN

Details
A PAIR OF UPPER MISSOURI RIVER PONY BEADED HIDE MOCCASINS
POSSIBLY MANDAN
of side seam construction, sinew sewn and lane-stitched, each decorated with red and yellow pigment, overlaid by two columns of horizontal bars beaded in alternating black and white, a band of blue and white beads along the seam, red wool trade cloth beneath the cuff, with ink inscription on one sole, 4791a, and 4791a and M on the other, drawstring ties
Lengths: 11 in. (27.9 cm.) each (2)
Literature
Illustrated in Die Prarieindianer Nordamerikas 1840 - 1890, plate 17 and in Waldlandindianer und Bisonjager Noramerikas, plate 10.
Exhibited
Amerika Haus Berlin, Mar. 1 - 31, 1971; Jan. 26 - Mar. 3, 1976
Further details
For most of the 19th century, the prevalent type of American Indian footwear on the Northern Plains and Plateau was the sideseam moccasin. Although the type is still somewhat popular in the latter region, moccasins with separate soles (generally referred to as two-piece moccasins) began to replace the genre on the Plains in the 1850s. The sideseam moccasin consists of one piece of hide folded in half lengthwise, cut to shape, and closed with a horizontal seam extending from the big toe, around the front of the other toes, and continuing along the outside of the foot. The seam rises at a slight angle as it extends toward the rear and intersects the verticle heel seam -- hence the term side seam. The tongues of earlier examples of sideseam moccasins in particular were frequently cut integrally with the pattern. However, in some instances separate tongues were sewn in place, as in the Zielinski pair. Long tie thongs, and a cufflike extension, or "upper," were often added to wrap around each ankle. Occasionally a decorative apron-like flap of red or blue wool was inserted, as the red wool of this pair.

In addition to the classic aboriginal art forms of bird quillwork and porcupine quillwork, beadwork employing pony beads (approximately twice the size of seed beads so commonly seen in beadwork from the late/mid-19th century to the present) typically served to decorate Plains Indian sideseam moccasins. Three colors of glass beads were most prevalent: white, black and a slightly translucent, medium blue. Patterns and motifs in beadwork of the period are characteristically simple, often consisting of mere lanes and bars of alternating colors. The Zielinski moccasins are remarkably similar to those worn by Periska Ruhpa (The Two Ravens), a Mandan Chief painted by the celebrated Swiss artist who accompanied Prince Maximillian on his expedition up the Missouri River, 1833 - 1834.

Benson Lanford
November 14, 2004

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