1 jeroboam per lot
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DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI
"One thing I noticed in the evolution of our wines, especially Romanée-Conti, is a vegetal note that later becomes this aroma of rose petal"
--Aubert de Villaine, Co-owner/co-director of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
'Romanée-Conti,' as the local proverb goes, 'is the central pearl of the Burgundian necklace.' This miniuscule vineyard gives its name to the most famous Domaine in the world, commonly referred to as 'D.R.C.' or, more reverentially, as The Domaine.
This pearl, this small jewel, just under 5 acres, was coveted by a famous collector of jewelry, Madame de Pompadour, but she was out bid by the Prince de Conti, hence the name. The King's minister won against the King's mistress! In 1868 the vineyard passed to the de Villaine family and is still, today, managed by Aubert de Villaine.
It never fails to astonish me that the strips of vines which stretch only a modest number of meters up the very gentle slopes from the outskirts of an equally modest, indeed remarkably rural rambling of village Vosne, are capable of producing wines of such world class quality.
The strips of vines cultivated by the Domaine include La Tâche (nearly 15 acres), also a monopol or wholly owned vineyard, 13 acres of Romanée-Saint-Vivant--most elegant wine and, I think, fractionally underrated and over 8 acres of the more substantial Richebourg. Then, strictly speaking not in Vosne-Romanée but over the wall, literally uphill from Clos Vougeot, are 8 acres of the superb Grands-Echézeaux and just over 11 of Echézeaux.
One thing strikes me forcibly: these five sites prove unquestionably that the French notion of terroir is not a fancy figment of Gallic imagination for the differences between each of the wines is marked, so consistent. Yet all five of the D.R.C. burgundies are made, traditionally, in the same cellars from grapes of the same variety, Pinot Noir. Romanée-Conti itself has an unique concentration, La Tâche has a different sort of intensity, each having a superbe yet vividly contrasting bouquet. Richebourg, next door, has a broader character, and so on. So what produces those differences: slight variations in subsoil, slope and drainage, fractionally, virtually imperceptible microclimate. Who knows. But fermented and élévé identically, the final wines are different.
The Price? Well, of course, there is no getting away from the bare facts: the production is so small and the world demand so high that even opening prices make one wince. But this is nothing new. The finest wines have always been the perogative of the seriously rich or fortunately privileged, from fat Prelates to their Royal Masters.
Another thing I have discovered. They keep so well. The 1937 Romanée-Conti is still magnificent, the 1945 La Tâche has an almost pristine depth of colour and fragrance. The wine opens up in the mouth fanning out like a peacock's tail. Even curious vintages like 1951 and 1954 can be surprisingly good. And do they change! Sometimes unconvincingly when young, they take on colour and depth. They are not wines for an instant sniff; they open up in the glass.
Michael Broadbent
Property of a Gentleman
Recently removed by Christie's from a temperature and humidity controlled, private, below ground level, home cellar.
Romanée-Conti--Vintage 1985
Côte de Nuits, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
Level: 4cm; cracked domaine embossed wax capsule top, serial number 20, slightly wrinkled label
See front cover and opposite page illustrations
"Alas, only one note: concentrated nose; very sweet, rich, multi-dimensional. Tasting a client's stock in New York, Deb 1996 *****" MB, Vintage Wine
"The Romanee-Conti is utterly mind blowing. The heady, intoxicating bouquet delivered penetrating and sublime aromas that were even more intense than those from the La Tache. On the palate, there is a veritable smorgasbord of earthly and heavenly delights. Needless to say, it is very rich, very opulent, and very concentrated. Red burgundy and red wine do not get any better than this. My guess is that it will peak between 1990 and 2005, as it is a bit more forward than either the La Tache or Richebourg.
This fabled estate has had a brilliant track record since 1978. Lalou Bize-Leroy and Aubert de Villaine seem to have everything tightly within their grasps, so it is unlikely that some of the lapses in quality control that occurred previously will resurface. I am sure they still cannot understand why their estate is so frequently singled out for malicious attacks, but no one should have any trouble appreciating the domaine's 1985s, which are their best wines in decades, even surpassing their sensational 1978s. The problem is coming up with the cash to finance them. The wines, aged in 100 new oak, are never filtered." Robert Parker Jr., Burgundy Book (1990)
1 jeroboam per lot
"One thing I noticed in the evolution of our wines, especially Romanée-Conti, is a vegetal note that later becomes this aroma of rose petal"
--Aubert de Villaine, Co-owner/co-director of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
'Romanée-Conti,' as the local proverb goes, 'is the central pearl of the Burgundian necklace.' This miniuscule vineyard gives its name to the most famous Domaine in the world, commonly referred to as 'D.R.C.' or, more reverentially, as The Domaine.
This pearl, this small jewel, just under 5 acres, was coveted by a famous collector of jewelry, Madame de Pompadour, but she was out bid by the Prince de Conti, hence the name. The King's minister won against the King's mistress! In 1868 the vineyard passed to the de Villaine family and is still, today, managed by Aubert de Villaine.
It never fails to astonish me that the strips of vines which stretch only a modest number of meters up the very gentle slopes from the outskirts of an equally modest, indeed remarkably rural rambling of village Vosne, are capable of producing wines of such world class quality.
The strips of vines cultivated by the Domaine include La Tâche (nearly 15 acres), also a monopol or wholly owned vineyard, 13 acres of Romanée-Saint-Vivant--most elegant wine and, I think, fractionally underrated and over 8 acres of the more substantial Richebourg. Then, strictly speaking not in Vosne-Romanée but over the wall, literally uphill from Clos Vougeot, are 8 acres of the superb Grands-Echézeaux and just over 11 of Echézeaux.
One thing strikes me forcibly: these five sites prove unquestionably that the French notion of terroir is not a fancy figment of Gallic imagination for the differences between each of the wines is marked, so consistent. Yet all five of the D.R.C. burgundies are made, traditionally, in the same cellars from grapes of the same variety, Pinot Noir. Romanée-Conti itself has an unique concentration, La Tâche has a different sort of intensity, each having a superbe yet vividly contrasting bouquet. Richebourg, next door, has a broader character, and so on. So what produces those differences: slight variations in subsoil, slope and drainage, fractionally, virtually imperceptible microclimate. Who knows. But fermented and élévé identically, the final wines are different.
The Price? Well, of course, there is no getting away from the bare facts: the production is so small and the world demand so high that even opening prices make one wince. But this is nothing new. The finest wines have always been the perogative of the seriously rich or fortunately privileged, from fat Prelates to their Royal Masters.
Another thing I have discovered. They keep so well. The 1937 Romanée-Conti is still magnificent, the 1945 La Tâche has an almost pristine depth of colour and fragrance. The wine opens up in the mouth fanning out like a peacock's tail. Even curious vintages like 1951 and 1954 can be surprisingly good. And do they change! Sometimes unconvincingly when young, they take on colour and depth. They are not wines for an instant sniff; they open up in the glass.
Michael Broadbent
Property of a Gentleman
Recently removed by Christie's from a temperature and humidity controlled, private, below ground level, home cellar.
Romanée-Conti--Vintage 1985
Côte de Nuits, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
Level: 4cm; cracked domaine embossed wax capsule top, serial number 20, slightly wrinkled label
See front cover and opposite page illustrations
"Alas, only one note: concentrated nose; very sweet, rich, multi-dimensional. Tasting a client's stock in New York, Deb 1996 *****" MB, Vintage Wine
"The Romanee-Conti is utterly mind blowing. The heady, intoxicating bouquet delivered penetrating and sublime aromas that were even more intense than those from the La Tache. On the palate, there is a veritable smorgasbord of earthly and heavenly delights. Needless to say, it is very rich, very opulent, and very concentrated. Red burgundy and red wine do not get any better than this. My guess is that it will peak between 1990 and 2005, as it is a bit more forward than either the La Tache or Richebourg.
This fabled estate has had a brilliant track record since 1978. Lalou Bize-Leroy and Aubert de Villaine seem to have everything tightly within their grasps, so it is unlikely that some of the lapses in quality control that occurred previously will resurface. I am sure they still cannot understand why their estate is so frequently singled out for malicious attacks, but no one should have any trouble appreciating the domaine's 1985s, which are their best wines in decades, even surpassing their sensational 1978s. The problem is coming up with the cash to finance them. The wines, aged in 100 new oak, are never filtered." Robert Parker Jr., Burgundy Book (1990)
1 jeroboam per lot
Provenance
Purchased on released by the current owner from a well-known and reputable local retail establishment. It has remained undisturbed in one cellar location since initial commercial release.