Cartier. An extremely fine and rare platinum & sapphire-set openface keyless lever dress watch, minute repeating activated through the bezel
Cartier. An extremely fine and rare platinum & sapphire-set openface keyless lever dress watch, minute repeating activated through the bezel

SIGNED CARTIER, MONTRE DE POCHE EMPIRE REPETITION MARINE MODEL, CASE SIGNED E.W. & C. CO. INC., FRANCE, NO. 8998, CASE HAND-STAMPED WITH CARTIER REFERENCE NUMBERS 8998 AND 15035, MOVEMENT SIGNED EUROPEAN WATCH AND CLOCK CO., INC., CIRCA 1915

Details
Cartier. An extremely fine and rare platinum & sapphire-set openface keyless lever dress watch, minute repeating activated through the bezel
Signed Cartier, Montre de Poche Empire Repetition Marine model, case signed E.W. & C. Co. Inc., France, no. 8998, case hand-stamped with Cartier reference numbers 8998 and 15035, movement signed European Watch and Clock Co., Inc., circa 1915
With nickel-finished lever movement, 29 jewels, bimetallic compensation balance, minute repeating on two polished steel hammers onto two gongs and activated by turning the bezel clockwise, the silvered matte dial with Roman numerals, blued steel moon-style hands, in circular slim case with sapphire-set band and bow, snap on back centred by engraved coat of arms and motto Vigilate, case numbered and stamped EWC, dial signed Cartier, movement signed EWC
50 mm. diam.

Lot Essay

The coat-of-arms on the present watch are those of Leeds of Berkshire, Molscroft, Lincoln, Lincoln's Inn, London and North Milford, York.

The present watch is thought to be the one of only three example of a Cartier dress watch with minute repeating activated by turning the bezel known to have appeared in public to date.

This highly unusual system was developed at the beginning of the 20th century with the aim of protecting the movement from humidity and dust intrusion as occurring in the common system with the slide in the band, requiring an opening in the case.

The production of this fragile mechanism however proved extremely difficult and costly and consequently, only a very small quantity of such watches was ever made and even fewer have survived to date.

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