Lot Essay
The workshop of Henri Picq figured among the principal Parisian workshops for gem-set platinum jewellery from 1900-1918 and thereafter, together with one other workshop, continued to work for Cartier. In the 1920s and 1930s, Picq was notable for his work on their carved emerald, ruby and sapphire jewellery, later called 'tutti frutti'.
This particular style of jewellery by Cartier was originally simply called 'pierres de couleur' (coloured stones). Only in the 1940s was it named 'tutti frutti', probably inspired by the bakelite fruit jewellery, which was famously worn by Carmen Miranda in her number 'The Lady in the Tutti Frutti Hat' in the 1943 Hollywood film The Gang's All Here - although this had nothing to do with Cartier's gemstone jewellery (rf. Judy Rudoe, Cartier 1900 - 1939, London 1997, pp. 208-210). Although it cannot be confirmed whether Henri Picq worked exclusively for Cartier, this fine bracelet shows workmanship and design of the highest level.
A very similar bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels was sold at Christie's Geneva on 17 November 1988, lot 540 for SFr. 143,000 and another very similar bracelet made by Henri Picq was offered ten years later at Sotheby's New York on 19 October 1998 as part of Jewels from the Estate of Betsey Cushing Whitney, lot 60.
This particular style of jewellery by Cartier was originally simply called 'pierres de couleur' (coloured stones). Only in the 1940s was it named 'tutti frutti', probably inspired by the bakelite fruit jewellery, which was famously worn by Carmen Miranda in her number 'The Lady in the Tutti Frutti Hat' in the 1943 Hollywood film The Gang's All Here - although this had nothing to do with Cartier's gemstone jewellery (rf. Judy Rudoe, Cartier 1900 - 1939, London 1997, pp. 208-210). Although it cannot be confirmed whether Henri Picq worked exclusively for Cartier, this fine bracelet shows workmanship and design of the highest level.
A very similar bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels was sold at Christie's Geneva on 17 November 1988, lot 540 for SFr. 143,000 and another very similar bracelet made by Henri Picq was offered ten years later at Sotheby's New York on 19 October 1998 as part of Jewels from the Estate of Betsey Cushing Whitney, lot 60.
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