Ruchottes-Chambertin, Clos des Ruchottes--Vintage 1988

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A SUPERB COLLECTION OF RARE BURGUNDY What makes the wines of Burgundy so great ? The wines of Burgundy were first mentioned, in glowing terms, in AD 312 - but it is not their immensely long history, or renown, which make them great. Nor is it the beauty of the hillsides where they grow. When Stendhal visited the Côte d'Or in the early nineteenth century, he found the landscape dreary and disappointing. Indeed, the vineyards grow on low, east-facing slopes, capped by rocks and woods, over-looking a flat valley. The best wines comes from just two grapes : Chardonnay for the whites, Pinot Noir for the reds. But these grapes thrive elsewhere too, so it is not just these varietals which account for Burgundy's renown. Instead, we have to consider many factors, for instance : the mother rocks of the vineyards, the sub-soil, and top-soil. The regional climate, and the micro-climates of the different vineyards. The above-mentioned grapes, and also how they are cultivated (viticulture), with the way the grapes they produce are transformed into wine (vinification). The history of wine styles and how laws govern the naming of wines also play their part in defining or maintaining the greatness of the wines. Most important of all : the people. Great wine does not splash from a hillside, like a spring of water gushing out, to become in time a great river. Great Burgundy has been created by the people of that region, over fifteen centuries - and is now one of the world's greatest, living cultural creations. It is not surprising that the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits are on their way to being named UNESCO World Heritage sites. Space does not allow these factors to be treated at length, so I will highlight some of the most important aspects. The mother rocks, for instance, are Jurassic limestone, laid down in beds, intermingled with pebbles and marls, over millions of years, under shallow seas. Where the bedding planes of the rocks were cracked, split and crumpled, by the mountain-building of the nearby Alps, this resulted in enormous variety of soils, slopes, drainage and orientation. This partly accounts for the fascinating variety of Burgundy's wines. Burgundy lies in central eastern France, protected by the Massif Central from Atlantic storms - not too hot, not too cold. It is far enough south to gather sufficient sun to ripen its grapes slowly, far enough north to make for a long hang-time for the fruit, bringing complex aromas, retaining fresh acidity. Where streams have flowed down from the hills behind the vineyards, erosion, with the effect of winds, have added to the mother-rock complexities. There is genuine variety, from year to year, between the weather patterns, resulting in real vintage variations for the wines produced. The Pinot Noir grape was first mentioned in AD1375. No other grape variety in France has a name which has been in use for more than six centuries. Over the years, the growers have selected different types of Pinot, with thick skins, or low yields, or particular perfumes, so that today, the quality of the wines owes enormously to the individual vine plants. In the Middle Ages, Burgundy's vineyards were mainly owned by local monasteries, or the nobility. At the time of the French Revolution, these lands were confiscated from church and aristocracy by the nation, and then sold off to the locals. The result is that Burgundy's vineyards were totally democratised, and are now owned by the people who tend the vines and make the wines. Local pride is fierce, as is local competition to make the best wines. Whole villages are given over to vineyard husbandry, with the creation of defined styles, and a constant questioning of familiar tasks. This sale of great Burgundies provides an opportunity to acquire wines from some of the region's most historic, famous vineyards, from many of its most brilliant wine-makers, and from a variety of vintages, from 2005 back to 1988. From the Côte de Beaune, there are several examples from Domaine de Montille, a Volnay-based estate renowned for it's long-keeping bottles. From the Côte de Nuits, the offering is very broad. For instance, Armand Rousseau and Denis Mortet, two of Gevrey-Chambertin's greatest estates, are strongly represented. There are iconic bottles, from superb vintages, from two of the region's most famous vineyard-owning ngociants (merchant-shippers), J. Faiveley and Louis Jadot. No village on the Côte de Nuits has proved more fascinating, for many people, than Vosne-Romane, known as "the central pearl of the Burgundian necklace". From here, we offer examples from leading estates like Jean Grivot, Franois Lamarche and Mo-Camuzet. Arguably keeping the most scintillating until last, we move to Chambolle-Musigny, with rare bottles from Ghislaine Barthod, and a string of offerings from Domaine Georges Roumier, and three examples from Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. There is also Clos de Tart, with wines from Nicolas Potel, and Domaine Dujac - we wish you great acquisitions at this Burgundy banquet ! Anthony Hanson MW A Review of recent Burgundy Vintages by Anthony Hanson M.W. 2005 The June flowering of the vines went well, with some loss of crop - which was beneficial to concentration and quality. July was cool and mild, then August proved very dry, with heat and cold alternating. August temperatures averaged 4 degrees above the normal, hastening the ripening process. Real summer heat became established at the end of the month, lasting into September with glorious, sunny weather persisting, during the vintage. The most striking feature of the 2005 growing season in the Côte d'Or was the absence of rain. Mature and old vines at top Domaines were able to draw moisture from their well-established root systems, so they withstood the drought well. This is one of the greatest red Burgundy vintages of the last 20 years, inviting comparisons with 1999 and 1990. From the beginning, the wines have had depth of colour, pungent freshness of aroma, with strikingly rich, complex structures and magnificent length. Naturally ripened tannins will ensure magnificent development for the best, over many decades. 2004 This is a very classic year for red Burgundies, but throughout the summer growers had to battle with the elements. Flowering in mid-June went well, announcing a large crop, so that summer-pruning became necessary. July brought patchy weather, then August was wet, with localised hail-storms in the Côte d'Or on 17th July and 23rd August. The secret of success in 2004 was vigilance in the vineyards during August, to prevent mildew, or grey rot, taking hold. Fortunately, fine weather appeared in September, which lasted up to and during the harvest. Sorting tables had become widespread by this stage at the best Domaines, and their use was invaluable. Grapes with record sugars and good acidities were harvested. The reds have remarkable freshness, with classic Pinot characteristics and supple, alluring textures. This is a vintage for youthful and mid-term ageing, with the best improving over several decades. 2003 After April frosts in Chablis, Meursault, Puligny, and Chassagne-Montrachet, which reduced the crops, the flowering went through normally, then exceptionally sunny, hot weather became established, throughout July and August. A vine's normal cycle lasts approximately 100 days, but in 2003 many grapes were ready to be picked after 80 days. They were perfectly healthy, but wrinkled, with crystallised sugars. As for the heat, all records were broken, resulting in the earliest ever start to the vintage in central Burgundy (19th August) - earlier even than 1894, when they began on 24th August. The red wines have deep colours, and richly roasted, spicy aromas. Acidities are low, but tannins are often dense and ripe, contributing to good potential for ageing. Many wines have made, and are making, spectacularly opulent, youthful drinking, and we recommend that Burgundy lovers profit from this drinking window, while cellaring the greatest, and keeping an eye on their developments. 2002 The flowering went well, then it was followed by a lack of sun during July and August, with below-average temperatures, and, mercifully, below average rainfall in the Côte d'Or. At the end of August there were strong rains and low temperatures, which adversely affected the Beaujolais harvest. Further north, fine weather returned, bringing about ample natural sugar levels. Acidity was retained, thanks to clear skies and drying winds. It is one of the best white Burgundy vintages since 1996, and the reds look very promising. 2001 Flowering was spread out, resulting in uneven ripening, then summer weather was fitful, sometimes scorching, sometimes overcast. Hail on 2nd August damaged vineyards in the central Côte de Beaune, but, happily, high temperatures and dry weather mitigated its effects. Good weather, before and during the harvest allowed natural sugars to build up well, for bunches to ripen, and acidities be retained. Generally, the whites do not have the ripeness of 2000, but show crisp, citrus aromas with good, freshness. The reds have good aging potential with fine flavour concentration. The Côte de Nuits excelled. 2000 Flowering took place in excellent conditions throughout the region, to be followed by a dreadful month of July, with low temperatures, rain and little sun. August turned hot, and the vines made up lost ground. Rain returned in early September, and a heavy thunderstorm on 12th September caused flooding, particularly on the Côte de Beaune, forcing some growers to start picking immediately. White wines are generally excellent, and broadly, Côte de Nuits reds out-performed those from its rival Côte. The reds are maturing rapidly, showing attractive, soft fruitiness, but are unlikely to be long-living. 1999 After a somewhat spread-out, but successful flowering, it became evident that a harvest of record-breaking size was on the way. Conscientious growers green-harvested in July, but yields were still enormous. Fine weather set in from around 20th August for 3-4 weeks, fortunately bringing many grapes to healthy ripeness before rains began to fall from 20th September. Whites were good, though some lacked concentration and sufficient, balancing acidity. Concerning the reds, it is proving to be a superb vintage. Well-coloured, fruity wines with ripe tannins and excellent balance were produced throughout burgundy, particularly on the Côte de Beaune. 1998 After an early bud-break, many of the best hillside vineyards were caught by Easter frosts, reducing the yields and unsettling the vineyard growth. Hail caused some damage in the Côte d'Or, but particularly in Chablis. Great heat during August in some cases blocked the vegetation, causing the grapes to dehydrate. Rain in early September affected the quality of the Beaujolais and Mâconnais harvests. In the Côte d'Or, an overdue week of fine weather allowed the fruit to reach ripeness just at harvest time, but grey rot was a problem. This is a vintage of irregular due to the variety of weather problems. The picking date and whether or not imperfect grapes were eliminated are the two major factors affecting quality and potential. 1997 After a slow start to the vineyard year, the flowering lasted ten days, giving a crop 30 per cent smaller than the 1996 vintage. July was rather wet and in August the ripening process was interrupted by heat, resulting in low acidities in the grapes by the end of that month. Hot weather in September and during the vintage produced grapes with record levels of sugar. Many fermentations went through too fast, because of the high temperature of the fruit when picked. Most red and white wines are soft and round, and generally maturing for early consumption, ahead of both the 1996 and 1995 vintages. Prices were high, due to buoyant demand for Burgundy from many markets. 1996 June and September made this vintage excellent. The flowering went through in fine weather and speedily, ensuring that the large crop of grapes was able to mature evenly. July and August were unexceptional, but September had clear and luminous skies which brought the grapes to rich maturity without their subtleties, or essential acidity, having been baked away by excess heat. Given the big yields (it was the largest Côte d'Or harvest since 1982) some wines lack concentration, but their natural alcoholic richness and fruitiness are most appealing, in both reds and whites. Fine acidities will ensure harmonious ageing. It is an excellent vintage for Chablis. 1995 A drawn-out flowering of the wines resulted in imperfect setting and uneven development of the berries. Beneficially, this reduced the crop size, but on the downside, resulted in the grapes maturing irregularly. July and August were very hot, September often unsettled. Many white Burgundies have good concentration with fine acidity and are ageing well. The reds are less consistent, some having suffered from rot at harvest time. Malolactic fermentations were slow to finish, and some wines appeared to have lost fruit by the time they were bottled. The best have excellent potential, and are maturing slowly. 1994 The weather during the flowering and up to the end of august was excellent for grape growth and health; however two weeks of wet weather occurred in early September. This halted the ripening process, diluting acidities. Those who harvested early often had to contend with the rain, but the week of 23-29th September was finer, benefiting late-pickers. 1993 Mildew was a real problem during the early part of the summer, and the crop was a potentially large one. Pinot skins were thicker than in 1992, and the grapes healthier. The red wines generally have more powerful fruit, with excellent colour and potential (if they were not diluted by harvest rain). Many good crus Beaujolais were made. The whites (côte d'Or and Chablis) were late to ripen, it was a large harvest, and most pickers were caught by the rains. When they have concentration, the wines are excellent, but concentration is the problem. 1992 In Chablis they generally picked too late, and yields were at record highs. Many whites had low acidities, and many will be fragile, but if a grower had pruned tight, and possibly green-harvested, respectable natural alcohol levels were achievable. In the Côte d'Or, whites were generally very well balanced, and often picked in better weather conditions than the reds. These can lack exceptional fruits concentration; often the grapes were large, and the yields higher than in 1991. The reds are tender wines, likely to make rapid or mid-term drinking. 1991 The reds generally came out better than the whites, which, although cleanly fruity, can be short and rather flabby: diluted from the water they took up, and often lacking acidity. Red grape skins were thick and strong, and many excellent wines were made. The right to pick was given, on the Côte d'Or, on 25th September, which was to be followed by three days rain. There was then sunny weather for four days, followed by more rain. This is a year when freedom over the picking date could have really benefited quality. (Burgundy had escaped the severe frost damage on 22 April 1991, which affected Bordeaux, the Loire and many other French vineyards. 1990 The natural sugar levels were often excellent, where the yields were not over-swollen by some rain at the end of August. Most growers did not need to chaptalize, and did not. Generally healthy, well-balanced wines, both red and whites, the reds being magnificent, with plenty of colour and extract, and excellent potential for ageing. 1989 Growers decided they should mark the bicentenary of the French Revolution with record prices, on the grounds that everyone would want to buy a souvenir-which was a big mistake. The large crop of red wines often lacked the fruit intensity of the previous year. There were fairly high natural sugars, and ripe, appealing fruitiness helped early sales, but both 1990 and 1988 reds look set for rosier futures. Many white 1989s were unbalanced by high alcohol levels and lowish acidity, but have made sumptuous youthful drinking- though at steep prices. The best white wines are concentrated and superb. 1988 The red wines were healthy, though often not particularly attractive when young. Although often hard, the best have densely concentrated flavours and good potential. Many 1988 whites have structure and acidity, and have been slow to mature-most have now reached their peaks. With reds, the tannins are finally softening, giving spicy, long flavoured, characterful wines.

18 bottles per lot

Details

A SUPERB COLLECTION OF RARE BURGUNDY
Recently removed from a temperature and humidity controlled warehouse in the UK where the wines have lain since shipment from the individual Domaines

Lying in Weybridge, Surrey (EHD)

Lots marked ## are offered duty-paid but available in bond

Offered in original wooden cases or cartons

Ruchottes-Chambertin, Clos des Ruchottes--Vintage 1988
Côte de Nuits. Domaine-bottled: Armand Rousseau
18 bottles per lot

Special notice

Offered duty paid, but available in bond. VAT at 17.5% will be charged on the hammer price on removal of the lot from bond.

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