A RARE TOURMALINE AND JADEITE BEAD COURT NECKLACE, CHAO ZHU

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A RARE TOURMALINE AND JADEITE BEAD COURT NECKLACE, CHAO ZHU
LATE QING DYNASTY

Composed of one hundred and eight pink tourmaline beads, divided at three evenly spaced intervals with a jadeite Buddha's head bead, the matching jadeite fota of triple-gourd shape, the mouth of which is fitted with a yellow ribbon that is attached to an oval pink stone and from which suspends another length of ribbon, terminating at one end with a kingfisher feather embellished filigree mount, encasing a pear-shaped spinel, on one side of the fota suspending a string of smaller blue tourmaline beads, terminating with a similarly mounted spinel, and on the other side, suspending two strings of blue tourmaline beads, each fitted with a yellow beryl and peridot respectively

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Lot Essay

Qing court necklaces were an essential part of court dress, indicating both rank and seasons, with different gemstones required for different ceremonies. The materials and form of the mandarin court necklace were strictly codified in the Qing Huidian Tukao, written in the early Qing dynasty, and also in the Huangchao Liqi Tushi, which was revised during the thirty-first year of Qianlong (1766). Cf. a court necklace with amethyst, pink tourmaline and coral beads, included in the joint exhibition, Secret World of the Forbidden City, The Bowers Museum of Cultural Art, California, and the Beijing Palace Museum, 2000, illustrated in the Catalogue, p. 72, where the author provides instructions on how to wear the necklace.

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