Patek Philippe. A fine and very rare stainless steel wristwatch with indirect sweep centre seconds, unusual dial design, Breguet numerals and Gay Frères bracelet

SIGNED PATEK PHILIPPE & CO., GENEVE, CALATRAVA MODEL, REF. 96, MOVEMENT NO. 827'584, CASE NO. 613'925, MANUFACTURED IN 1937

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Patek Philippe. A fine and very rare stainless steel wristwatch with indirect sweep centre seconds, unusual dial design, Breguet numerals and Gay Frères bracelet
Signed Patek Philippe & Co., Geneve, Calatrava model, ref. 96, movement no. 827'584, case no. 613'925, manufactured in 1937
Cal. 12''' 120 SC nickel-finished lever movement, 18 jewels, bimetallic compensation balance, silvered sector dial, applied steel Breguet numerals, indirect sweep centre seconds, outer railway five minute divisions, circular case, flat bezel, snap on back, stainless steel link bracelet with deployant clasp stamped GF for Guy Frères, case, dial and movement signed
31 mm. diam.

榮譽呈獻

Dr. Nathalie Monbaron
Dr. Nathalie Monbaron

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With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with raised steel hour markers in 1937 and its subsequent sale on 21 July 1937.

This watch is an outstanding example of the landmark reference 96. It is distinguished by its exceptional dial layout, placing the emphasis on the outer railway seconds scale with the elongated blued steel centre seconds hand as opposed to traditional time display.

Consequently the time indication was moved towards the centre, lending the watch a very particular lug. Furthermore the length of the "feuille" hands was adapted to reach only to the black hard enamel minute ring surrounding the Breguet numerals.

This very minimalist but most architectural design is in perfect harmony with contemporary design of the 1930s, most notably the avant-garde Bauhaus style.

This watch is thought to be the only example of a stainless steel reference 96 fitted with such a dial layout to appear at auction to date. Never been offered in public before, this particularly attractive example of the celebrated model combines highly desirable features such as the superb dial with the much sought after Breguet numerals and the famous calibre 12''' 120 SC with indirect centre seconds. It furthermore stands out by another noteworthy feature, the contemporary stainless steel link bracelet made by the celebrated Gay Frères. Located in Geneva, the firm specialized in manufacturing high quality bracelets for Switzerland's most prestigious watch companies.

Although the watch was originally entered in Patek Philippe's archives to have left the manufacture with a leather strap, the present bracelet is from the same period and has possibly been added shortly after its purchase.

The ébauche for the movement of this watch was the result of Louis Cottier's and Patek Philippe's collaboration, where the centre seconds mechanism was ingeniously added to the existing 12'''120 "subsidiary seconds" movement.

Never out of fashion, the finest examples of reference 96 reveal to the best extent how architectural and timeless design remains modern even three quarter of a century after its creation.