THE PROPERTY OF A LADY OF TITLE
AN EXQUISITE DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY BULGARI

細節
AN EXQUISITE DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY BULGARI
The front section suspending eleven graduated old European-cut diamonds, the largest weighing 10.02 carats, each with baguette-cut diamond surmount to the pavé-set and baguette-cut diamond stylised butterfly spacers, the neckchain of similar motif with diamond collet intersections, circa 1935, 42.5 cm.
Signed by Bulgari

拍品專文

Bibliography: Daniela Mascetti & Amanda Triossi, "Bulgari", Leonardo Arte, Milan, 1996, page 64


The jewels of the 1930s are characterised by their "whiteness". As opposed to the more colourful creations of the Art Deco period, they are predominantly set with dazzling diamonds. The increasing boldness of the designs compensated for their less colourful nature. An exhibition of jewels at the Palais Galliera in Paris in 1929 was marked by the virtual disappearance of coloured stones from the designs. The House of Bulgari, though primarily located in Italy, was acutely aware of this Parisian trend. Their designs at this time were set almost exclusively with diamonds and were marked by their daring. According to the authors of the definitive book on Bulgari, these jewels were "inspired by the machine age and industrial design." In a manner similar to the artistic sphere and such painters as Fernand Leger, the jewellery world reacted to the fast-moving pace of modernity and the new aesthetics it brought. Typical of the Bulgari necklaces of the period, such as the present one, are motifs resembling stylised nuts and bolts. One characteristic that was particular to their necklaces of that time and which makes them "distinctly Bulgari" is the incorporation, as in this necklace, of an impressive fringe or several festoons of graduated larger circular-cut diamonds. In the Bulgari tradition, this concept gave birth to creations that were classical, yet superbly stylish and impressive.