AN 18K GOLD AND DIAMOND "MARGUERITE" MINAUDIERE AND CIGARETTE CASE, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

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AN 18K GOLD AND DIAMOND "MARGUERITE" MINAUDIERE AND CIGARETTE CASE, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
The minaudière, of rectangular outline, the case engraved with daisies, with pavé-set diamond bombé centres to the cover and cross-hatching detail in between, the hidden push-piece opening to reveal a mirror and a powder, a blush and a lipstick compartment; with a cigarette case en suite, circa 1950, minaudière 14 x 8 x 2 cm., cigarette case 12 x 8 x 1 cm., with French assay marks (illustration not actual size)
Minaudière signed "La Minaudière de Van Cleef & Arpels", no. 71318, 7934, lipstick no. 72879, the cigarette case signed by Van Cleef & Arpels, no. C.S. 1625 (2)

Lot Essay

Cf. Exhibition Palais Galliera, "Van Cleef & Arpels", Editions Paris-Musées, Paris, 1992, page 156, plate 265 for similar objects

The "Minaudière" represents the apogée in the development of the vanity case. The latter became popular in the years following the First World War, during the Art Deco period in particular. Deriving inspiration from the Japanese and Chinese "inro" in which medicinal powders were kept, they varied in form and were used to keep lipstick, powder and rouge. The name was christened by the Americans. The idea for the larger "Minaudière" came to Charles Arpels upon a visit to one of his most important clients, Florence Jay Gould. She had transformed a large "Lucky Strike" metal cigarette case into a purse, carrying her make-up, cigarettes and lighter. Arpels immediately drafted a design for the "Minaudière" which would replace the evening and dressier afternoon bags. The present one is a lovely example of Arpels' design genius.

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