Although anticipated well before World War I, the sautoir did not really come into its own until 1921, when Vogue noticed how many women were having several inches added to their necklaces, achieving a becoming line from neck to waist. This was due to the change in fashions from the pre-war corseted hour-glass silhouette with high coiffure to the knee-length, loose fitting dresses with cropped hair. Like earrings, the necklace was elongated so as to emphasize the femininity sacrificed by the boyish look. Although for daytime wear, the popularity of pearls remained unchallenged, evening fashion was dominated by diamonds. Women removed the stones from their old collet necklaces and wide Belle Epoque stomachers and gave them a new lease on life with platinum chains. Influenced by the Cubist movement, this new jewellery followed simple geometric designs.

None of the sautoirs executed by Chaumet in the 1920s is the same. Not only are there subtle differences in the diamond sautoirs, but onyx, jade, crystal or carved Indian emeralds were also incorporated. This particular chain and pendant epitomises the style of the time. Each link stands out as a model of clarity and mathematical precision. Since it divides into alternative ornaments, a shorter necklace and two bracelets or three brooches, it has the added advantage of versatility, which is increasingly desired of modern jewellery.

Diana Scarisbrick, author of "Chaumet: 200 Years of Fine Jewellery" (1995), is organising the Chaumet retrospective exhibition at the Musée Carnavelet, Paris, March 25 - June 28, 1998