A HUNGARIAN SILVER-GILT AND STONE-SET BREAST ROSETTE
A HUNGARIAN SILVER-GILT AND STONE-SET BREAST ROSETTE

MARK OF PETRUS KERSTEN, NAGYSZEBEN, LAST QUARTER 16TH CENTURY

Details
A HUNGARIAN SILVER-GILT AND STONE-SET BREAST ROSETTE
MARK OF PETRUS KERSTEN, NAGYSZEBEN, LAST QUARTER 16TH CENTURY
Hexafoil, the sides decorated with spiralling studs and ropetwist borders and set with garnets and turquoises, centering figures of the Virgin and Child flanked by female saints, within openwork Gothic niches surrounded by turquoises and hardstones, marked on hinged hasp
4½ in. (11.5 cm.) diameter
Provenance
The Gusztáv von Gerhardt collection, auctioned by Rudolph Lepke's Kunst-Auctions-Haus, Berlin, 1911, no. 539
Literature
László Mravik, "Sacco di Budapest:" Depredation of Hungary 1938-1949, 1998, illus. fig. 20026, p. 340

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Lot Essay

As illustrated in the following portraits of Bálint Balassi and Countess Eszterházy, ornamental breast rosettes were worn by both aristocratic men and women in early modern Hungary. This example, with its religious iconography and its similarity to surviving examples in Church treasuries and depicted in ecclesiastical images, likely belonged to a 17th century Transylvanian Bishop, who would have used it to fasten his pontifical cope.

A closely related work, incorporated into a reliquary, is illustrated in Judit H. Kolba and Annamária T. Németh, Goldsmiths' Work, 1974, pl. XXXI. A similar rosette, in the collection of the Hungarian National Museum (Inv. No. 57.700.C), is illustrated in Judit Kolba and Annamária T. Németh, Treasures of Hungary: Gold and Silver from the 9th to the 19th Century, 1986, fig. 16, p. 26.

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