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Lot Essay
It is very rare to find a jifu embroidered with the twelve symbols of Imperial authority, reserved exclusively for the emperor, but on an apricot ground, the colour designated to the heir apparent. This suggests the current robe dates to the late Qing period, when Imperial control declined and dress regulation in the Imperial court became less strict. It is also characteristic of robes from the nineteenth century when Imperial imagery became less significant while other auspicious decorative elements like the Eight Buddhist Emblems became popular. See Valery M. Garrett, Chinese Clothing: An Illustrated Guide, Hong Kong, 1994, p. 40.
Compare to an earlier apricot-ground jifu dated to the Jiaqing period but without the twelve Imperial symbols, illustrated in Heavenly Splendour: The Edrina Collection of Ming and Qing Imperial Costumes, Hong Kong, 2009, pl. 28; another similar example, also without the twelve symbols and dated to the Tongzhi period, ibid, pl. 30.
Compare to an earlier apricot-ground jifu dated to the Jiaqing period but without the twelve Imperial symbols, illustrated in Heavenly Splendour: The Edrina Collection of Ming and Qing Imperial Costumes, Hong Kong, 2009, pl. 28; another similar example, also without the twelve symbols and dated to the Tongzhi period, ibid, pl. 30.