A LARGE DIAMOND-SET AND ENAMELLED GOLD TORQUE (HASLI)
A LARGE DIAMOND-SET AND ENAMELLED GOLD TORQUE (HASLI)
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A LARGE DIAMOND-SET AND ENAMELLED GOLD TORQUE (HASLI)

JAIPUR, NORTH INDIA, 19TH CENTURY

Details
A LARGE DIAMOND-SET AND ENAMELLED GOLD TORQUE (HASLI)
JAIPUR, NORTH INDIA, 19TH CENTURY
Of rounded form with a hinged element from which it opens, the centre with a rounded boss with flat face, the face of the necklace with diamonds set in a scrolling vine pattern issuing large rosettes on blue enamelled ground, the reverse with polychrome enamel floral decoration on white ground, the boss with a large diamond-set rosette and sides decorated with an enamelled peacock, the edge of the necklace and boss with paired freshwater pearls suspended from gold wire, the hinged element with an enamelled chevron pattern, in blue velvet-lined fitted case
8in. (20.3cm.) diam.
Sale room notice
Please note that the stones are white stones, likely to be white sapphires, zircon or rock crystal, not diamonds as written in the catalogue

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Lot Essay

This necklace is of a form known as a hasli. It is a form that is thought to have originated in Bikaner in Rajasthan - originally made in silver and worn by country women. The beautifully gem-set and enameled decoration here shows the classic rural form combined with the decorative achievements of royal Mughal craftsmen. It is likely that this type of necklace was made for the wife of a zamindar (landowner) or merchant and that it would have demonstrated their elevated social status (Oppi Untracht, Traditional Jewelry of India, Hong Kong, 1997, p.352).

A very similar necklace is in the Khalili Collection (Pedro Moura Carvalho, Gems and Jewels of Mughal India. The Nasser D. Khalili Collection of Islamic Art, London, 2010, no.131, pp.234-235). Another recently sold at Sotheby's, 6 April 2011, lot 360.

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