A RARE IMPERIAL EMBROIDERED KESI TWELVE-SYMBOL PARTIALLY MADE DRAGON ROBE
A RARE IMPERIAL EMBROIDERED KESI TWELVE-SYMBOL PARTIALLY MADE DRAGON ROBE
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PROPERTY FROM A PRIVATE AUSTRALIAN COLLECTION
A RARE IMPERIAL EMBROIDERED KESI TWELVE-SYMBOL PARTIALLY MADE DRAGON ROBE

JIAQING/DAOGUANG PERIOD (1796-1850)

Details
A RARE IMPERIAL EMBROIDERED KESI TWELVE-SYMBOL PARTIALLY MADE DRAGON ROBE
JIAQING/DAOGUANG PERIOD (1796-1850)
Five panels that comprise the body have been sewn together and stitched with a yellow lining. The bright yellow ground is finely woven in red, yellow, green, blue, ochre, pink and gold threads with nine dragons grasping flaming pearls amidst multi-coloured scrolling clouds, with the addition of embroidered elements of wan emblems and quatrefoil flower heads. The twelve symbols of Imperial authority are arranged in three groups of four: the sun, moon, constellation and rock around the neck; the fu symbol, axe, paired dragons and golden pheasant around the body; the pair of temple cups, aquatic grass, grains of millet and flames above the waves. There are also scattered bats suspending wan symbols, peaches, flowers, Shou characters, crab apple above cresting and rolling waves, the terrestrial diagram and lishui stripe.
49 in. (124.5 cm.) long
Provenance
Collection of Madame Christian Rowe Thornett, sold at F.R. Strange, Sydney, 31 May 1972, lot C39.

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Lot Essay

Madame Christian Rowe Thornett was the daughter of successful tobacco manufacturer and philanthropist Sir Hugh Dixon and Lady Emma Elizabeth Dixson nee Shaw (1844-1922). See footnote to the preceding lot also from the same collection.

The tailoring of robes began, as the current example demonstrates, by joining the left and right side lengths down the back seam, next the half-length panel for the front overlap was seamed to the left front panel. The excess material at the sides and under the arms was removed. The sleeve assembly, consisting of the sleeve extension and cuffs, was attached flat. The lining, as well as the external and internal facings, edge bindings, ribbons, tapes and couched embroidered bands were applied while the garment remained flat. The lower hem and skirt vents were finished, and finally the side and underarm seams sewn.

For another example of a partially sewn robe, see The Imperial Wardrobe: Fine Chinese Costume and Textiles, Christie's New York, 19 March 2008, lot 42, and for further discussion on the construction of robes, see op. cit., p. 85.

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