QIANLONG PERIOD (1736-1795)

The chaofu, or attire of state, is the most important of the ceremonial costumes of the Qing court comprising: chaopao or robe of the state, piling or projecting epaulets, hat, girdle, court necklace, and boots. The two-part construction of chaopao, consisted of a short side-fastening jacket attached to a pleated skirt, derived from Ming styles of court dress, and adapted by the Manchu to incorporate features reflecting their equestrian heritage, such as the curved overlapping right front, a shape derived from animal skins which was added for extra covering and protection; narrow sleeves with their lower portion replaced with ribbed silk, allowing the wearer to bend his arm more easily when hunting; and horse-hoof cuffs, originally intended to protect the hands when riding in bad weather.

The current midnight-blue chaopao embroidered with four front-facing five-clawed dragons on upper body and four profile five-clawed dragons on the skirt, correspond to the specifications cited in Huangchao liqi tushi (Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court) for a first-rank or second-rank prince. The addition of the nineteen dragon roundels to the upper section of the pleated skirt, a specification originally solely reserved for the Emperor, is likely a result of loosening adherence to regulation for court attire towards nineteenth century.