PATEK PHILIPPE. A FINE AND EARLY 18K GOLD HINGED WRISTWATCH WITH ENAMEL DIAL AND BREGUET NUMERALS
Prospective purchasers are advised that several co… Read more
PATEK PHILIPPE. A FINE AND EARLY 18K GOLD HINGED WRISTWATCH WITH ENAMEL DIAL AND BREGUET NUMERALS

SIGNED PATEK PHILIPPE & CIE., GENÈVE, OFFICIER MODEL, MOVEMENT NO. 194'520, CASE NO. 287'842, MANUFACTURED IN 1921

Details
PATEK PHILIPPE. A FINE AND EARLY 18K GOLD HINGED WRISTWATCH WITH ENAMEL DIAL AND BREGUET NUMERALS
SIGNED PATEK PHILIPPE & CIE., GENÈVE, OFFICIER MODEL, MOVEMENT NO. 194'520, CASE NO. 287'842, MANUFACTURED IN 1921
Cal. 12''' gilt-finished jewelled lever movement, hinged gold cuvette, white enamel dial, Breguet numerals, subsidiary seconds, circular case, hinged back, case, cuvette, dial and movement signed
31 mm. diam.
Special notice
Prospective purchasers are advised that several countries prohibit the importation of property containing materials from endangered species, including but not limited to coral, ivory and tortoiseshell. Accordingly, prospective purchasers should familiarize themselves with relevant customs regulations prior to bidding if they intend to import this lot into another country.

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John Reardon
John Reardon

Lot Essay

With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with enamel dial and Breguet numerals in 1921 and its subsequent sale on 3 October 1927.

Officier case wristwatches are quite possibly the timepieces that most exude a vintage vibe. First designed at the beginning of the 20th century, they are some of the earliest examples of wristwatches. They were originally developed for military purposes, so that reading of the watch would be much more immediate compared to a pocket watch which has to be taken out of a pocket. This destination explains the hinged case back and cuvette usually found on Officier style watches: the hinged parts cannot be lost, and the cuvette provides additional movement protection, invaluable in combat situation. Another detail dictated by war necessities is the strap securing system, which employs screw bars rather than spring bars, much more difficult to be accidentally deployed.

The appeal of these timepieces, however, soon transcended their original use, and Officier watches are nowadays very much appreciated, to the point that certain modern models are designed with this precise case configuration, such as the current production, extremely high end Patek Philippe references 5959 (a virtual carbon copy of this watch, but with split-seconds chronograph), minute repeating 5539, and the super-complicated 5213, among others.

Being very early timepieces, Officier case wristwatches usually mount early movements: still quite thick, as the technical innovations had so far allowed only for limited miniaturization. As a result, the case design is as well relatively thick, and it imparts to the watch a sense of solidity and massiveness that far exceeds what is usually seen on later watches of similar size. The dial of the present timepiece is simply sublime, furthermore adorned with the highly appreciated Breguet numerals. Timepieces with an enamel dial in a condition as stunning and pristine as the one mounted on the present watch are as attractive as they are rare.

The Officier model is described and illustrated in Patek Philippe Museum - Patek Philippe - Volume II, p. 176.

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